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100 tips, tricks and hacks from travel insiders – Asia
Looking to delve further into Asian travel? Look no further for your inspiration...
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The cutest things every tourist must do in Japan
From hanging out in Harajuku to riding a Hello Kitty bullet train, here’s how to immerse yourself in kawaii: Japan’s quintessential culture of cute, writes Leigh Ann Pow. Anyone who has spent any time in Japan knows that it is the undisputed capital of cute. This is a country where Hello Kitty rules supreme (road works here are marked out with Hello Kitty-shaped construction barriers, complete with rainbows, instead of orange witches hats), where businessmen read comics on their daily commute, and where grown women have their nails manicured to resemble doughnuts. They even have a word for it: kawaii. There are endless ways to get a heaping helping of kitsch on your next visit; here, our top suggestions. Stay in a Hello Kitty-themed hotel For total kawaii immersion consider booking a Hello Kitty room at the Keio Plaza Hotel in Tokyo’s buzzy Shinjuku neighbourhood. There are two room types: Princess Kitty is a confection of pink on pink while Kitty Town has a funkier vibe. But both come with everything from complimentary water bottles to kettles to bathroom amenities emblazoned with the popular pussy. Address: 2-2-1 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku-Ku, Tokyo. 160-8330 Japan Eat food with faces The Japanese have made an art form out of fashioning food into cute characters. Mothers spend hours in the morning constructing bento boxes (Japanese lunchboxes divided up into handy compartments) filled with Hello Kitty-shaped carrot slices (you can buy the clever little tool responsible for this at Daiso discount stores) and onigiri with panda faces. You can even take classes to ensure your sticky rice creations are a cut above the rest: Tokyo Kitchen in Asakusa offers Teddy and Bunny Sushi Rolls and Teddy Bento Box classes, with the added bonus that you get to eat your creations once you’re done. [caption id="attachment_42819" align="alignleft" width="1500"] Enjoy an ice cream sandwich at the Kuwaii Monster Cafe[/caption] Take a seat at a character cafe Forget Starbucks: why settle for a boring old coffee and cookie when you can take a seat in a character cafe and sip a matcha latte with a cartoon face floating in the foam or eat an omelette presented as a fluffy blanket, complete with a rice bunny sleeping underneath? There are cafes dotted across the country that pay homage to everything from Pompompurin to Cinnamoroll to Rilakkuma to, you guessed it, Hello Kitty, where everything from noodles to cream puffs comes with an extra helping of adorable. Below are our picks: Shirohige’s Cream Puff Factory Lovers of Totoro and Ghibli films will be across the phenomenon that is Shirohige’s Cream Puff factory. The specialty café makes (you guessed it), cream puffs in the shape of a Totoro: the famed Japanese anime species. Eat upstairs or enjoy take away downstairs, but be sure to arrive first thing in the morning as these tables fill up quick! Address: 5 Chome-3-１ Daita, Setagaya City, Tokyo 155-0033 Hello Kitty Café Konhariyaki The sheer scale of the Hello Kitty café is enough to tell you just how popular this little character has become. Tourists from around the world flock to Tokyo Plaza to dine among the décor of Hello Kitty. So it’s only right that you do too… Address: 2F Diver City Tokyo Plaza, Koto 135-0064 Peanuts Café If you’re childhood consisted of reading the popular comic strip Peanuts (featuring the adventures of Snoopy and friends) you’ll need to add the Peanuts Café to your itinerary. The sleek, modern café is nestled among the quiet neighbourhood of Meguro and serves a menu stamped with Peanuts motifs. Address: Chome-16-7 Aobadai, Meguro City, Tokyo Visit kawaii ground zero To get a real understanding of Japan’s cult of cute, there is no better place to spend time than the Tokyo neighbourhood of Harajuku (between Shinjuku and Shibuya on the Yamanote line). On the weekend the narrow streets here throng with young Tokyoites dressed in their technicolour best ducking in and out of funky fashion boutiques and cosplay shops on Takeshita Dori (Street), and buying all manner of weird and wonderful food, from ice-cream cones topped with scoops resembling pigs and pandas to doughnuts with bear faces to whipped cream-topped waffles that defy the laws of gravity. For a dose of crazy head to the Kawaii Monster Cafe for rainbow spaghetti; make sure you visit the five-storey Kiddy Land toy store on Omotesando Street; and top it all off by heading over to nearby Yoyogi Park to watch Tokyo’s urban tribes – from rockabillies to hip hoppers to kawaii girls drowning in tulle – compete for attention. [caption id="attachment_42820" align="alignleft" width="1500"] Colour and fun at the Monster Cafe[/caption] Have some five-star fun Not even five-star hotels are immune from the animated action: the venerable Peninsula Tokyo worked with The Pokémon Company to come up with the world-first Pokémon Hotel Adventure: The Power of Ten program. At check-in, pint-sized guests register to take part in an interactive treasure hunt, at which point they are given a Poké Ball (and a rather fetching Pikachu hat) and sent off to undertake a hotel-wide quest to find their favourite Pokémon characters. Riding lifts and climbing stairs, the players have to solve puzzles, play games and follow instructions, checking into interactive docks throughout the hotel before moving on to the next clue. The whole thing ends with a lift ride into a dimly-lit secret chamber, complete with a magic mirror, which really ramps up the mystery and fun. peninsula.com All aboard the Kitty train Riding Japan’s bullet trains is a quintessential experience in these parts, even more so since West Japan Railway Co. Ltd decided to introduce a Hello Kitty version. Car 2 (named Kawaii! Room) on the pink-liveried train has been decked out in her signature ribbons and bows on everything from the carpets to the windows to the head rests, and comes complete with a photo booth with Hello Kitty toys in Shinkansen uniforms for perfect Instagram props. Car 1, or Hello! Plaza, has regional displays from the area’s train stops, as well as a shop to buy all things Hello Kitty. The Hello Kitty Shinkansen will run between Shin-Osaka and Hakata in Fukuoka city in western Japan's Fukuoka prefecture until the end of September. Start stamp collecting Stamps are a big thing in Japan, where day-to-day documents and official papers are still stamped with personal seals (hanko) to leave a mark (inkan) of verification. They are also a traditional method of commemorating a visit to a temple or shrine; goshuinchou, meaning ‘honourable red-stamp notebook’, is the process of collecting the unique stamps of each establishment along with gorgeous calligraphy details of the date etc. usually written by monks and costing the equivalent of a few dollars each. But there’s a fun and free alternative: most places in Japan have their own stamps, from department stores to parks to specialty shops to train stations to amusement parks to airports! All you need to start collecting is a small notebook (stop in at a Tokyu Hand or Daiso store for cheap options) and an eagle eye for spotting the wooden-handled stamps and ink pads that are usually located near the entrance or exit. Scenes can depict the venue itself, but many regions, attractions and monuments in Japan have their own adorable mascots (known as yuru-kyara), from smiling mushrooms to red-cheeked bears to a puppy with a ramen bowl on his head, which are invariably included on stamps.
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Exploring Kansai: Japan’s lesser-known culture capital
Japan’s Kansai region is a melange of stunning temples, ancient traditions and delightful giggling schoolgirls in search of their own nirvana: the perfect selfie. Details Getting there ANA flies from Sydney and offers a special fare to any destination within Japan with their Experience Japan Fare, visit https://www.ana.co.jp/en/au/ Staying there In Mount Koya: Stay in the lovely temple inn of Fukuchi-in, and make sure you set your alarm early for morning prayers. In Kyoto Book a place in a traditional ryokan-like Gion Yoshi-Ima where futons are laid out on tatami matting and the staff leave origami cranes in your room to wish you a good night. [caption id="attachment_41888" align="alignnone" width="1500"] The colourful bustle of Nishiki Market in Kyoto.[/caption] Exploring Kansai I’m having a spiritual moment; in a clearing on a forested hillside in temperatures that feel like they would be unlikely to be nudging double figures, I’m standing in a circle with my ungloved hands hovering just millimetres above the equally bare extremities of my guides on either side. We have roped an unsuspecting young Taiwanese tourist into our almost hand-holding quorum; she is too sweet to refuse, offering up her own bare hands with mild confusion to form another link in our chain. Her boyfriend has shuffled off awkwardly lest he is asked to do the same. My guide tells us to concentrate. We close our eyes and I shiver against the cold. And then I feel something, a warming sensation in my hands when the icy air should be biting at my fingertips. My eyes widen, and my guide nods knowingly, explaining that the large Zen Buddhist temple of Kurama-dera that crowns this area, surrounded by the thick forest of fir trees and hemlock that we are currently standing in, is known for being a sacred energy spot; a hexagram inset into the ground in front of the towering main hall is a marker of where energy descends from the heavens above. [caption id="attachment_41885" align="alignnone" width="1500"] The Kansai region is dotted with sacred sites, shrines and temples[/caption] Shrines and sacred sites After a few days in the Japanese region of Kansai, located on the island of Honshu and encompassing the headlining cities of Kyoto, Kobe, Nara and Osaka, as well as lesser-known gems such as Mount Kōya and Wakayama, this is not the first time I have felt an ethereal, otherworldly force at work. The area is legendary for its stunning shrines, temples and scared sites, encompassing both Buddhism and Shinto, the traditional religion of Japan, as well as for its dense culture of geisha and time-honoured practices, both religious and social, that are revered and celebrated to this day. In the few days since I landed at the expansive Renzo Piano-designed Kansai International Airport (Qantas now flies direct to this modern behemoth from Sydney), located on its own man-made island in the Bay of Osaka, an easy drive from the hyperactive neon-lit city of Osaka, I have clocked up visits to myriad breathtaking temples and shrines, and experienced ceremonies of such exquisite beauty that I have been moved on an almost hourly basis. [caption id="attachment_41889" align="alignnone" width="1500"] One of the collections of statues at Kyukamura Kisyu-Kada shrine.[/caption] Awashima-jinja Shrine My journey through Kansai, also irresistibly known as Kinki, began at the small Awashima-jinja Shrine just metres from the lapping waters of the sea at Kada in Wakayama Prefecture. Dedicated to women and babies – visitors come here to ask for the gift of a child, for a safe pregnancy and delivery, and for the healing of female ailments – the grounds and the main hall are filled to bursting with all manner of weird and wonderful dolls and statues, all lined up in neat little rows. At first glance it seems to be the sort of crazy kitsch that Japan is famous for – plastic My Little Pony figurines, their wispy, garishly coloured manes dancing in the sea breeze sit near masterfully crafted traditional Hina dolls that form part of Hina-matsuri, the annual doll festival held nationally on 3 March to mark Girl’s Day, a celebration to wish good health and happiness to girls and young women. These in turn are overlooked by endless maneki-neko, the cutesy porcelain beckoning cats that are thought to bring good luck, and the list goes on: frog statues, ceramic horses, dragons... Rather than having been gathered together as some crazy homage to Japan’s kawaii cult of cute, it is explained that the Japanese believe that all objects are imbued with a spirit, so discarding such things is a karmic no-no. Instead they are grouped together, displayed (and, inevitably, Instagrammed) until the numbers swell to the point where a clean sweep is needed. This involves the ritual cleaning of the dolls, to cleanse the spirit and soul within, before they are burnt and the ashes scattered into the sea. I hear tales of a doll whose hair apparently grows, but he or she is not on public display. Mount Kōya It is this exquisite symbolism that is at the heart of many of the traditions that the Japanese revere, and most of the social codes that they still live by in the 21st century. Unlike other cultures around the world that have relegated such ancient beliefs and rituals to the annals of history or tokenistic stage-managed annual celebrations, modern Japan is an irresistible melding of old and new, where neither comes at the expense of the other. This fact is reconfirmed at my next stop, the mountaintop temple town of Mount Kōya (also known as Kōya-san), the heartland of Shingon Buddhism, a Buddhist sect introduced to the country in 805 by Kobo Daishi, one of its most significant and venerated religious figures. During winter the temples here are blanketed in a thick layer of snow that lends an ethereal beauty to the landscape. Wandering through town from temple to temple (there are over 100), the quiet dignity of Buddhism plays out all around me, as worshippers go through the process of washing their hands before approaching the various Buddha statues to offer their silent prayers. In spite of the fact that there are people coming and going all around me, the silence hangs so thick in the air that you feel like you might almost be able to touch it. [caption id="attachment_41887" align="alignnone" width="1500"] The rich reds of Sio-mon (the west gate) at Kiyomizu-dera, considered to be the gateway to Paradise.[/caption] Kobo Daishi’s mausoleum From Kongobu-ji, the main temple of Shingon Buddhism, the site of Kobo Daishi’s mausoleum is reached by a long path that snakes through Okunoin Cemetery, cleared in the forest over hundreds of years. In the failing light of a winter afternoon, stone lanterns throw out a dim yellow glow over the gravestones, many thick with age and deep green moss. And then I notice something so anachronistic that it stops me in my tracks: a granite gravestone carved into the shape of a Yakult bottle stands atop a plinth. Apparently being buried here is so significant that some of the largest companies in Japan have plots here where they allow workers who have died on the job to be interred. They use the accepted symbols of their industry or their corporate logos as markers, the most dominant of all being a giant rocket that trumpets the burial site of a manufacturer of rocket components. Where to stay: Fukuchi-in As the sky starts to turn a cold, dark grey, we head to our lodgings for the night, Fukuchi-in, a traditional temple inn with lovely landscaped gardens and the only hot spring in town. We sit on tatami and eat a feast of shojin ryori (vegetarian dishes); the various pickles, rice, tofu and vegetables served in tiny portions that are almost artistic in their execution. I settle into my futon early, knowing that I have to rise early the next morning. Morning prayers At 5.30am, with the sun nowhere in sight, I dress and head down the ancient creaking stairs (the temple was founded some 800 years ago) to witness the morning prayers of the resident Buddhist monks. After cleansing my hands with incense powder, we are ushered into the room and take up position on the floor. The monks sit in an inner sanctum lit by dim candlelight and start repeating their mantra, their breath visible in the frigid morning air. The heady smell of incense is so heavy in the air that I breathe it in and can taste it on my tongue. During the prayers we are asked to place incense powder in a burner and offer up our own silent salutation. I am a complete novice when it comes to Buddhism, but my guide does her best to explain the symbolism and meaning to me. While I don’t retain much of this whispered knowledge, I do leave afterwards with a sense of absolute privilege at having witnessed an act of such pure devotion. I get a sense that the rituals of this religion, which many Japanese observe in conjunction with Shinto, are less about doctrine and more about giving its followers canons to live by that provide a gentle and aware existence; an intoxicating proposition in a world so fractured along religious lines. Nara It is a wrench to leave, but soon we are zig-zagging our way down the mountain toward Nara. With a centre that feels less frenetic than many other Japanese cities, possibly as a result of the deer that free-range throughout, elegantly bowing their heads to tourists in the hope of receiving food, Nara was the country’s first permanent capital from 710–784, before the Emperor and the Imperial court decamped to the new capital of Kyoto. Todai-ji temple There is almost nothing original left from this time, but Nara still possesses a historic soul, dominated by the sprawling Kofukuji temple complex, once the family temple of the powerful Fujiwara clan. The five-storey, 50-metre high pagoda at its centre is Japan’s second tallest, first built in 730, and most recently rebuilt in 1426. Nearby we also visit the mammoth Todai-ji temple, home to The Great Buddha, a hulking statue that dwarves its visitors as they circle its base. [caption id="attachment_41883" align="alignnone" width="1500"] A shrine in the grounds of Kodai-ji Temple in Kyoto.[/caption] Kyoto and Kiyomizu-dera Eventually any exploration of Kansai will bring you to Kyoto, a city whose modern sprawl stretches out from an exquisite historic centre. The city’s fascinating geisha history plays out during the day as an endless stream of teenage and young adult girls walk the ancient streets dressed in bright modern kimonos, on a mission to secure the perfect selfie on the steps of Kiyomizu-dera, one of the most picturesque of temples, and the nearby Kodai-ji, with its traditional gardens and bridges. [caption id="attachment_41886" align="alignnone" width="1500"] A master brush-maker at work in Nara; Handmade brushes made the traditional way can fetch thousands of dollars depending on the materials (animal hair) used.[/caption] Before we leave I make sure to get a shuin-jō, a red temple stamp, in the book I purchased on day one. These stamps are unique to each temple or shrine, and are accompanied by characters created with the kind of calligraphy brushes that are still handmade today; I tried my hand at the art just outside of Nara, at Akashiya Fude, working with a master brush-maker who made it look a lot easier than it actually is. I have become mildly obsessed with collecting these stamps during my stay, determined to keep them as the ultimate souvenir of my journey into Japan’s spirit world. ANA flies from Sydney and offers a special fare to any destination within Japan with their Experience Japan Fare. Want to know more about Japan? Visit our guide to everything you need to know about travelling Japan.
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Beyond Bali: discover seven of Indonesia’s lesser-known gems
There are so many things to love about Bali. From rice paddies to world-class restaurants, there’s no wonder it has become a rite of passage for so many Australian Travellers. And although this tropical paradise may be the most well-known of the Indonesian islands, the beauty of this spectacular country goes far beyond the braids, Bintangs and Bounty nightclub. As the world’s largest archipelago, Indonesia is home to thousands of islands – more than 17,000 to be exact. Each one is more exciting than the next, packed with things to do, see and explore. From white-sand beaches to urban jungles, here are seven Indonesian alternatives that will more than satisfy your travel bug. Lake Toba Located in North Sumatra, Lake Toba is one of the most incredible natural wonders on our planet. A caldera lake sitting at 1145 square kilometres, with a depth of 450 metres, its crystal clear waters measure almost twice the size of Singapore. At its centre sits Samosir Island. Here you’ll find breathtaking views of a super volcano that has been dormant for the past 74,000 years. And although the idyllic landscapes have given Samosir quite the celebrated reputation amongst tourists, the island still remains untouched in all its nature and greenery. And as far as your itinerary is concerned, there will never be a dull moment at Lake Toba. Swim and fish around the Binangalom waterfall, or hike up the Pusuk Buhit volcano for spectacular views. On a rainy day, get your Indonesian history and culture fix at the Batak museum. When taking the trip, Samosir Island is where most tourists choose to unpack. Stay in the vibrant Tuk Tuk area, where many popular restaurants, bars and guesthouses are located. The Gili Islands Given Bali’s popularity as a tourist destination, wanderlusters have long dubbed The Gili’s as its superior, less-crowded neighbour. To access these white-sand beaches, visitors must drive 45 minutes west of Denpasar and catch a 2 hour speedboat to the cluster of islands. Stepping onto the sand, visitors are quick to notice the lack of motorised vehicles. Tourists and residents rely on bicycles or a traditional horse and cart as the main means of transportation – a welcome addition for those looking to escape the urban chaos. Due to the miniscule scale of each island, the majority of accommodation is considered in prime location. However, Lombok’s most developed and populated island, Gili Trawangan, has long-served tourists on their quest for restaurants, bars and quaint shops. Kalimantan Often neglected when discussing the ‘best of’ Indonesia, Kalimantan is located in the country’s southern portion of Borneo. Dense greenery and tropical jungle make up this wildlife paradise, which is so undiscovered that it has been relatively untouched by tourism. Animal lovers will embrace the once-in-a-lifetime chance to visit the Tanjung Puting National Park, home to the critically endangered Bornean orangutan. Take a cruise on a traditional klotok river boat, stopping at feeding stations and viewing platforms along the way. And while the orangutans are the main attraction, they are joined by an extensive list of other native wildlife, including clouded leopards, long-snouted gharial crocodiles and gibbons. After a day in the jungle, you will welcome the chance to unwind in paradise. Accommodation highlights include the Hotel Gran Senyiur, Merabu Homestay and the Nunukan Island Resort. Raja Ampat If diving is your thing, we’re almost sure you’ve heard of Raja Ampat. This turquoise paradise is one of the most isolated group of islands in the world, making it a hot spot for those seeking to explore the deepest waters. With its location in the Coral Triangle, north Papua, the island’s diverse and unique marine biodiversity is often looked at as the best on Earth. And with over 530 species of coral and 700 species of mollusc to explore, it’s a dream destination for divers. Because of this, there are a number of diving (and snorkelling) spots to choose from, with the most popular spots being the Kabui Passage, Sawandarek, Yenbuba, Friwen Wall, and many, many more. The attractions of Raja Ampat don’t stop there however, with many activities happening above sea level. Views from the Piaynemo homestay offer spectacular scenery, as well as bird watching, island hopping, kayaking and hiking. Komodo National Park The Komodo National Park, located in East Nusa Tenggara, is the only place on Earth where you can get up close and personal with the infamous Komodo Dragon. At least 2500 dragons call this area home, and every day, visitors are toured by locals throughout their jungle habitat in the hope of catching a glimpse of the largest lizard species in the world. They share the space with a number of other animals including wild buffalo, horses, deer, snakes, monkeys, birds and other wildlife. Aside from dragons, the Komodo National Park also features those outstanding Indonesian landscapes – including Pink Beach, or Pantai Merah,, which is one of only seven pink beaches in the world. Away from the sand, the island offers a snorkelling paradise, featuring crystal clear water home to coral reefs and exotic marine life. Pulau Seribu – Thousand Islands If you’re spending time in Indonesia’s capital, it would be rude not to check out Pulau Seribu, aka the Thousand Islands. Although there are only 150 of them, these island chains provide some of the most beautiful scenery less than three hours by boat from Jakarta. Tourists are able to visit just 45 of the 150 islands that make up Pulau Seribu, with only six having overnight accommodation available. Bidadari, Ayer, Kotok, Putri, Sepa and Pantara are all equipped with options, ranging from luxury guest villas to simple homestays. While visiting the thousand island cluster, you will find plenty to do. Diving and snorkelling are two of the most popular pastimes, with boats available for rent from most ports. Yogyakarta If you’re looking to step back from the beaches and get your city fix, Yogyakarta is your best bet. As the focal point of Javanese culture, this friendly city is home to some 500,000 people, and the site for the two UNESCO World Heritage temples of Borobudur and Prambanan. You’ll find an extensive catalogue of art, culture, education and heritage on offer here, and still plenty for nature lovers: explore Jomblang Cave, hike at the Merapi Volcano and wander the Kalibiru National Park. Street-food vendors line the northern end of Jalan Malioboro, and after a long day of exploring, head here to sample Yogya’s best delicacies, including the famous ayam goreng (deep-fried chicken soaked in coconut milk) and dishes such as sambal welut (spicy eel) and nasi langgi (coconut rice with tempeh). Yogyakarta also has Java’s best range of hostels, guesthouses and hotels. Many visitors opt to stay in the popular Sosrowijayan area, home to budget accommodation and mazes of alleyways. Others prefer the upmarket suburb of Prawirotaman, known for its boutique pools and restaurants. Need more Indonesian inpso? Check out some below: 5 reasons to stay in Indonesia...(and where to stay while you're there) The signs you've discovered Bali's surfing nirvana
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The one-of-a-kind all-inclusive tour that takes you to see the REAL Vietnam
This tour is designed to show you a side of Vietnam you’ve never seen before… Many people hold Vietnam, in all its cultural glory, high up on their hit list. It’s a place many people know consists of great food, diverse culture and exceptional landscapes – even without having travelled there. The Ho Chi Minh Trail is a journey like no other: an elaborate network of mountain and jungle paths and trails that was used strategically during the Vietnam War, running from North to South Vietnam via Laos and Cambodia. By following back roads where foreign tourists don’t often venture, boutique tour brand Goddard & Howse small world journeys – with its small groups of 14 – endeavours to take travellers to the heart of it. For 20 days and 19 nights, travellers will be privy to a tour that, when looking at the scope of current adventure offerings, seems to indeed be a mile apart from your usual expedition – and it’s mostly due to the varied stops in your itinerary and the significance of their meaning. Your journey begins in the centre of Vietnam, in the old town of Hanoi. It was here that the country became divided following a decree by the United Nations in 1954. Eat, pray, love this is not. The trail continues into Laos, following the northern route into the caves of Vang Xai and the birthplace of the Platet Lao. It then crosses back into Vietnam and onto Dien Bien Phu, where the French were finally defeated after 100 years. The emphasis of the tour is to immerse yourself in the culture of the land, giving you a rarely seen glimpse into mostly unchartered territory, where few foreigners before you have ventured. Goddard & Howse small world journeys are designed with authenticity in mind – and travellers who take part are left with a one-of-a-kind experience as unique as the destination itself. The details Vietnam & Laos: Ho Chi Minh Trail 20 days fully escorted journey with Ross Goddard This guided trail allows you to discover the real Vietnam for $6500 per person twin/double share, or $6500 plus $1600 for a solo traveller. What you get All accommodation with daily breakfast International flights from Sydney, Melbourne or Brisbane Private vehicles, always with a ratio of two seats to one Entrance and sightseeing fees Welcome dinner in Hoi An Private boat to Phong Nha cave Private train sleeper cabin from Sapa to Hanoi Farewell dinner at Wild Rice restaurant in Hanoi Hotel tipping and baggage handling Tour director
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