Hidden under the shimmering skyline of Shanghai are places to pause and appreciate the city’s past, present and future.
In a city of more than 26 million, the scenes playing out around Shanghai’s Fuxing Park make for a pleasing tableau. There are elderly couples performing their daily routine of tai chi under a big-leafed wútóng tree.
A group of women dressed in tracksuits twirling their diabolos in the bright sunshine. And an elderly gent wearing a jaunty cap sending soulful riffs towards the sky with his saxophone. This serene oasis is the first stop on a half-day Shanghai itinerary curated by Wendy Wu Tours.
It is, says my English-speaking guide Troy Zhang, a beautiful example of “the importance of nature and tradition," which sets the tone for the tour.
“This park was a private garden during the Ming Dynasty. It was taken over by the French in 1909 during the French Concession era … but these days is open to everyone," says Troy.
“Aside from all the exercise and social activities happening in this park, it’s a very popular place for local people to connect to nature. Many of the elderly people of Shanghai lived through the trauma of the Cultural Revolution and they come here to find peace," Troy explains.
The history of Shanghai is alive
New and Old Shanghai are divided by the Huangpu River. The tug-of-war between Shanghai’s past and present is evident as we exit historical district the Bund and watch a fleet of EV vehicles hum past.
Seeing the traffic move and not hearing the droning of engines is like a glimpse into the future: about 7.8 million electric vehicles were on the roads in China at the end of 2021. And a law banning the honking of horns along the concrete arteries of the downtown area ably demonstrates how Shanghai has evolved.
While pockets of the city – dubbed the Paris of the East – are cutting edge, a lot of Shanghai’s allure is still found in its ancient temples, heritage shikumen (stone gate) houses and bustling markets.
The must-see highlights of a Wendy Wu tour
Mengxi Market
This whistlestop tour with Wendy Wu also includes a visit to the unmissable Mengxi Market, where we stand transfixed in front of a bucket of glistening eels, slimy and slithering. Queue for dumplings. And exchange smiles with stallholders who sit in plastic chairs gossiping with their neighbours.
Tianzifan
The past and future converge in Tianzifang, an enclave known for residential shikumen houses which have been transformed into craft shops, galleries and cafes in the French Concession.
Xintiandi has also reinvented its old-style shikumen to accommodate upscale bars, eateries and fashion boutiques.
Wukang Road
The Wendy Wu Tours itinerary includes a wander along historic Wukang Road and its backstreets, where influencers are taking elaborately styled selfies to post on Douyin (social media) feeds.
How old and new collide in Shanghai
That collision of old and new is also keenly felt when bouncing between the 400-year-old City God Temple hidden away in Yuyuan Garden and the neon-lit observation deck of Shanghai Tower, the city’s tallest building.
Despite being in the heart of Shanghai, Wukang Road feels like it’s a world away from the city’s beige condos and soaring skyscrapers. “There are 14 historical buildings and 37 preserved architectural gems in this area and it is in contrast to the city’s skyscrapers, which are very futuristic," Troy says.
There are parts of Shanghai that shout, other pockets that whisper. While much of the city has been polished and pruned, it’s the stories that emerge, like flowers growing in the footpath, that give visitors a deeper understanding about the megapolis. And be it a tea-tasting ceremony, a meander along neon-lit East Nanjing Road or eating xinjiang ali shaokao (lamb barbecue) street-side, Shanghai is at its very best when it segues between its past, present and future.
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A traveller’s checklist
Getting there
Qantas has resumed its direct flights from Sydney to Shanghai five days a week.
Staying there
The Westin Bund Center is just a short stroll away from the Bund where you can see the city’s skyline, including the Oriental Pearl Tower.
Eating there
Old Jesse Restaurant is a Shanghai institution, known for its haipai (east-meets-west) cuisine.
Address: 41 Tianping Road, Shanghai, China
Playing there
Award-winning Wendy Wu Tours offers fully inclusive escorted experiences around Shanghai.
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