An epic guide to Puerto Princesa Underground River
21 June 2023
7 mins Read
Venture down the Puerto Princesa Underground River, a ‘mountain-to-sea’ ecosystem that holds a spot in the New Seven Wonders of Nature.
Life blossoms even in the darkest and deepest places on Earth. The Puerto Princesa Underground River, previously known as St Paul Subterranean River and National Park is a UNESCO World Heritage site in Palawan, that spans 8.2 kilometres and comes with a hidden cavern showcasing oddly shaped stalactites and stalagmites.
Echoing droplets of water and occasional bat pee are dripping onto the cave’s brackish water, a combination of saltwater and freshwater gently flowing into the chamber with a glaring teeth-like opening.
The underground river lies beneath the Saint Paul Mountain Range that rises 1,028 metres above sea level. It has an elephant-shaped karst limestone opening for seasoned hikers to scramble through multiple ravines and jagged edges to enter.
How to get there
Take a direct flight to Puerto Princesa from Ninoy Aquino International Airport in Manila, which takes 1 hour and 25 minutes of travel time. It’s approximately a two-hour drive from the city to Sabang Wharf; the jump-off point to the Puerto Princesa Underground River.
Enter the jagged teeth-like opening of the underground cave.
What to expect
Wild monkeys (macaques) will greet you as you set foot on the forest trail leading to the underground river. Don’t panic, just continue on until you reach the boat that will lead you inside.
Head inside the small cave entrance.
Be prepared to traverse a 4.3-kilometre portion of the underground river for about 45 minutes. Going beyond that gets steeper and narrower with little oxygen to breathe in.
Only a segment of the river is open for tourist explorations, and there are still unexplored parts of the river that are yet to discover. In 2010, a group of geologists and environmentalists found small waterfalls coming from the second floor of the cave.
You’ll need to wear safety helmets and life jackets. (Image: Cathlyn Botor)
The clicking of bats and swooshing of water are the only things you will hear inside the cave. Our guide asked us to wear an audio device that narrated the history and beauty of the UNESCO World Heritage site.
For centuries, stalactites and stalagmites were carved from the build-up of calcites or redeposited minerals after countless droplets of water. Watch out for bats and swallows that live in the impressive cave system.
Admire stunning stalactites and stalagmites inside the cave.
Navigated entirely by the guide’s searchlight, the cave opens up to incredible stalactites that take the shape of a ship, carrot, corn, mushroom, umbrella and some prominent religious figures.
One chamber of the cave is a heavenly abyss known as The Cathedral where you can seemingly hear church bells ringing if you just let your imagination run wild amid the profound silence. As you go deeper, it gets more enthralling upon reaching a cave dome with a vast ceiling of about 300 metres above the ground.
It’s pitch-black inside the cave without using a searchlight. (Image: Cathlyn Botor)
A short detour for an authentic experience
If you’re searching for something to go above and beyond what’s being offered to you, here are some other enchanting activities to sign up for in Puerto Princesa.
Sabang Mangrove Paddle Tour
On your way to the underground river, take a short detour to Sabang Mangrove Forest, located in the neighbouring barangay Cabayugan.
Century-old mangroves provide shelter to monitor lizards, mangrove snakes or binturong, pythons and a variety of endangered bird species. There is also an edible woodworm called Tamilok that inhabits the decaying mangroves. Locals have become accustomed to cracking open a dead branch and eating the raw Tamilok dipped in vinegar.
Go on a boat cruise along the evergreen waters of the Sabang Mangrove Forest. Local paddlers will give you a brief history of the place and serenade you with a personally composed song inspired by the wonders of the mangrove forest.
Cruise along the Sabang Mangrove Forest. (Image: Cathlyn Botor)
Ugong Rock Adventures
Pump up your adrenaline at Ugong Rock, a 50-metre-high limestone formation in the peaceful town of Tagabinet, Puerto Princesa, Palawan. The exhilarating activity is a mix of caving, spelunking and zip-lining through the scenic jungle down a 71-metre drop single ride. Immersing inside the cave will leave you in awe just by looking at the wondrous hollow stalactites.
Come buzzing through and above the scenic landscape. (Image: Philippine Primer)
Hundred Caves Spelunking Adventure
Stunning speleothems and cave pearls make up the multi-storied Hundred Caves, an emerging eco-tourism site in Puerto Princesa. Climb and ramble through glistening crystals and massive columns that are approximately 80 metres above sea level.
Majestic rock formations inside the Hundred Caves will take your breath away. (Image: Traveloka)
Iwahig River Firefly Watching
Spend a magical night surrounded by cosmic clusters of fireflies around mangrove trees as you cruise along the Iwahig River. As the inky blackness envelops you, cherish the moment to bask in the moonlight on a remote stargazing trip. Bathe in the glistening landscape; and if you’re lucky, bioluminescent planktons may also occasionally light up the river’s surface.
Thousands of fireflies light up the Iwahig River.
Other sights to see and experience in Puerto Princesa
Puerto Princesa is deemed the cleanest and greenest city in the Philippines. Beyond its natural wonders, dig into the city’s local cuisine and immerse in its beautiful culture that is preserved and passed on to many generations.
Here are a few highlights to see and experience in Puerto Princesa.
Golden South Sea Pearls
Palawan’s rich and thriving marine biodiversity is home to the golden south sea pearls, considered a national gem of the Philippines. Palawan has the cleanest and nutrient-rich waters in the country, making it a perfect spot to culture and preserve these precious jewels. For the locals, growing south sea pearls is both an essential eco-cultural tradition and livelihood.
A golden south sea pearl necklace is a stunning keepsake to bring home from your Palawan visit.
Balayong or local cherry blossoms
A piece of Japan is currently in the works at Balayong Park and surrounding areas in Puerto Princesa. Native cherry blossoms, called Balayong, start to bloom around the city during the months of February to late March. Balayong festival is also held annually on the 14th of March to commemorate the city’s founding.
Find local cherry blossoms at Balayong Park. (Image: Cathlyn Botor)
Crocodile sisig
Crocodile sisig is Palawan’s classic take on the Filipino sizzling pork dish. It tastes like chicken but is a healthier choice with low-fat content and high protein. Eating crocodile meat in Puerto Princesa is allowed as long as it’s farm-bred and did not come from the wild.
Crocodile Sisig tastes like chicken. (Image: Puerto Princesa Tourism)
The Palawan Wildlife Rescue and Conservation Center is a wildlife rehabilitation and conservation facility that protects captured crocodiles from the neighbouring towns. They also have a crocodile farm that grows crocodiles for human consumption.
The Crocodylus mindorensis is endemic to the Philippines.
Cashew nuts
Cashew trees are growing abundantly in the city proper and suburbs of Puerto Princesa. No wonder Palawan is hailed as the cashew capital of the Philippines. Don’t miss out on tasting different flavours of cashew such as roasted, chocolate-coated, salted, fried, brittled, and more!
Salted cashew nut is a famous snack in Puerto Princesa, Palawan. (Image: Philippine Primer)
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