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Kyushu: The Japanese island you have never heard of but will absolutely love

Kyushu has a lot to discover, from its heritage and history to its active volcanoes and hot springs, scenic coastline and incredible cuisine.

Carved by volcanic activity over millennia, the Japanese island of Kyushu, located at the southern tip of Honshu, is a compelling destination of bubbling geothermal pools, bucolic countryside and beautiful coastline. While it flies under the radar with many first-time visitors to Japan, its hidden-gem status is confirmed by the wealth of its cultural offering, the depth of its natural beauty and the hospitality of its people. And its saké is pretty good, too.

Yakushima, Kyushu, Japan
Bask in silence so thick you could almost touch it.

Why you will love Kyushu

By way of a crash course in all things Kyushu, the island is made up of seven prefectures (similar to local government areas) – Fukuoka, Kagoshima, Kumamoto, Miyazaki, Nagasaki, Ōita and Saga – all of which have their own unique character, texture and allure. With quick and easy access by air from Tokyo (the flight time is less than two hours), it boasts a delightful subtropical climate that makes it a dream to explore.

Kagoshima Prefecture, Kyushu, Japan
Kagoshima Prefecture boasts rugged landscapes carved by volcanic eruptions, idyllic tropical islands to escape to and a picturesque capital city.

Self-driving the island’s relatively quiet roads is an easy option, and it is also well serviced by quick and efficient trains, including sleek shinkansen (bullet trains). The ultimate scenic journey on Kyushu can be undertaken by booking a berth on the celebrated Seven Stars in Kyushu sleep train, which criss-crosses the island, offering up luxurious appointments, fine dining and stunning scenery in equal measure.

A forest walkway that goes under a large cedar tree, Yakushima Island, Kagoshima Prefecture, Kyushu
See the ancient UNESCO World Heritage-listed Japanese cedar forests of Yakushima Island.

As for experiences worthy of wrestling your attention away from Tokyo and Kyoto, they can be found in abundance: catch a ferry to watch the rumblings of Mt Sakurajima from Yunohira Observatory and wander the otherworldly lunar landscape of its lava fields; bask in a silence so thick you can almost touch it in the ancient UNESCO World Heritage-listed Japanese cedar forests of Yakushima Island, also in the Kagoshima Prefecture; take your pick of blissfully uncrowded beaches around Hyuga in Miyazaki Prefecture; and wonder at nature’s brutal beauty at Beppu’s evocatively-named Blood Pond Jigoku (hell or hot springs), a boiling blood-red cauldron.

Your next amazing Japanese journeys starts right here.

Smoking hot Kurokawa Onsen, Kyushu, Japan
Wonder at nature’s brutal beauty at Beppu’s Blood Pond Jigoku. (Image: Tetsuya Takahashi)

Fukuoka

Fukuoka has long been a geographical and historical gateway to Asia, thanks largely to the positioning of the ancient port city of Fukuoka on Hakata Bay. The prefecture is rich in both natural and historical wonders. During spring, seemingly infinite blossoms paint the landscape in a haze of colour, with spectacular shows of wisteria fashioned into a fragrant tunnel at Kawachi Wisteria Garden, and delicate cherry blossoms at the Kokura Castle in Katsuyama Park, both located in Kitakyushu.

cherry blossoms, Tenjin Central Park, Fukuoka City, Kyushu, Japan
Visit Tenjin Central Park and see the cherry blossoms in Fukuoka City.

Colour, this time in the form of plum blossoms, also proliferates at Dazaifu Tenmangu, an imposing Shinto shrine settled within expansive grounds (planted with some 6000 plum trees) in the ancient city of Dazaifu; a visit to the shrine should be bookended with a visit to the Kyushu National Museum. And old and new collide in the buzzing prefectural capital of Fukuoka, one of Japan’s fastest growing cities, with visitors spending time visiting the ruins of Fukuoka Castle, enjoying the relaxing atmosphere of Ohori Park, originally part of the castle moat, and indulging in the vibrant modern food scene.

bookended with a visit to the Kyushu National Museum, Kyushu, Japan
Bookend your trip with a visit to the Kyushu National Museum.

Eat

While in Fukuoka, sitting down to a steaming bowl of tonkotsu ramen is a must; the moreish local specialty, made from pork bones, is plentiful, flavoursome and inexpensive. And try umegae mochi when visiting Dazaifu Tenmangu; the road leading to the temple is lined with shops selling the sweet treat beloved by locals: the rice cakes are filled with a  sweet red-bean paste and stamped with a plum blossom.

Stay

Akizuki Onsen Seiryuan’s six rooms are located within a 7,900 square-metre plot of exquisitely manicured Japanese gardens. Each comes with its own private hot spring bath, unique view and distinctive character.

Tonkotsu Ramen in Fukuoka, Kyushu, Japan
Sitting down to a steaming bowl of tonkotsu ramen is a must.

Ōita

There are few places in Japan more illustrative of the seething seismic activity that bubbles beneath the surface than Ōita Prefecture. Visually, it makes for fascinating viewing, especially in the hot spring town of Beppu, where a collection of seven steaming natural pools have been given the evocative moniker of the Hells of Beppu (including the aforementioned Blood Pond, with its cloudy red waters and haze of steam constantly floating above it). While these pools are for viewing only, Ōita lays claim to having the most hot springs in the country, offering up the chance to soak travel-weary muscles in mineral-rich waters everywhere you go here – head to places like the Edo period Myoban Onsen and Yufuin Onsen, where you’ll find cafes, boutiques and art galleries worth ducking in and out of along Yunotsubo Kaido Street. Ōita also boasts a number of charming castle towns, including Kitsuki with its historic samurai districts filled with samurai houses (and no modern overhead power lines) and Taketa in the mountains. And not to be outdone by Fukuoka’s blooms, Kuju Flower Park at the base of the Kuju Mountains has shows of colour in spring, summer and autumn.

Eat

Ōita is one of the best places in Japan to sample fugu or puffer fish. And while the fish is highly poisonous if incorrectly prepared, it is also considered a delicacy. Fugu chefs train for decades to gain the skill to remove the toxic organs without tainting the flesh, which is best sampled as whisper-thin fugusashi (sashimi) dipped in a sauce of tangy ponzu or soy and vinegar.

Fugu Sashimi, Kyushu, Japan
Sample whisper-thin fugusashi (sashimi) dipped in a sauce of tangy ponzu.

Stay

A former sanatorium for Zen priests, Tamanoyu’s 16 traditional guesthouses are shrouded in emerald-green forest. There is a restaurant serving up dishes produced from local produce and a delightful tea room.

Kitsuki Castle in the Ōita Prefecture, Kyushu, Japan
Ōita boasts a number of charming castle towns, including Kitsuki.

Miyazaki

It is all about being outdoors in Miyazaki Prefecture, which boasts a compelling combination of landscapes, from jaw-on-the-floor coastal roads necklaced with blissfully uncrowded beaches and seriously good surf breaks – try Kisakihama, Okuragahama, Uchiumi and Aoshima if you are that way inclined – to thick green forests, and spectacular gorges and waterfalls. When in the area, exploration of Takachiho Gorge is a must. Cut through by the Gokase River, where you can either row past the 17-metre Minainotaki waterfall in the process, or walk the paved path along its edge, eventually ending up at Takachiho Shrine. There are a number of other shrines also worth a visit, including Miyazaki Shrine and Amanoiwato Shrine; time your visit to coincide with one of the colourful annual festivals held throughout the year.

Eat

When it comes to Miyazaki soul food, chicken nanban is it. The local take on karaage (fried chicken), the dish gets it distinctive character from the sweet and sour sauce it is coated in, and comes topped with homemade Japanese tartare sauce.

Stay

Nestled in thick forest close to Takachiho Gorge, Ryokan Shinsen is a traditional inn resplendent with stunning gardens and luxurious rooms in the Japanese style (complete with cedar soaking tubs).

Takachiho gorge, Miyazaki, Kyushu
The Takachiho Gorge is best explored by boat.

Kagoshima

Possessing the ultimate ‘best-of-all-world’s’ proposition, Kagoshima Prefecture boasts rugged landscapes carved by volcanic eruptions, idyllic tropical islands to escape to and a picturesque capital city that is almost Mediterranean in character. And, like its sister city of Naples in Italy, it has a pleasantly mild climate, palm-tree-lined thoroughfares and is dominated by a hulking volcano in the distance, in this case Mt Sakurajima. Exploration of Kagoshima should include a tick list of wonders, from the mystical UNESCO World Heritage-listed ancient cedar forests of Yakushima, one of the Ōsumi Islands, to the coral reefs, white-sand beaches and virgin mangrove forests (best experienced by kayaking Kuroshionomori Mangrove Park) of Amami Ōshima, also recently designated by UNESCO, to Yurigahama Beach on Yoran Island, a curious sand formation that appears from spring to autumn, according to the tides. And then there is Kirishima Kinkowan National Park, the heart of the prefecture, where you can hike active volcanoes (Mt Sakurajima is here), gaze across glassy caldera lakes and experience the health benefits of sunamushi (sand bathing) in Ibusuki Onsen; the only place in the world where this can be done, the process involves being buried up to your neck in sand that is heated and thickened by the hot spring waters bubbling beneath the surface.

The Suri beach, Kakeroma Island, Kagoshima Prefecture, Japan
Dip your toes in one of the white sand beaches in the Kagoshima Prefecture.

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Eat

Kagoshima is understandably proud of its Kurobuta pork (black pork), which comes from distinctive black Kurobutu pigs. Prized for its taste and purity, eat it grilled over charcoal and sprinkled with kettle-boiled salt.

Stay

With just five villas spread across 60 hectares of pristine, mist-shrouded mountains, Tenku no Mori is next-level luxury designed to allow guests to indulge in a blissful escape from the ordinary.

Amami Ōshima Island, Kyushu, Japan
Amami Ōshima Island in Kagoshima prefecture is known for its biodiversity.

Saga

The cultural delights of Saga Prefecture make for a compelling drawcard, especially for lovers of porcelain and ceramics. Saga is one of the main historic regions in the country for producing ceramic and pottery, with the first examples of Japanese porcelain pieces being produced here after the discovery of a plentiful source of porcelain clay near Arita. Refined Japanese ceramics are still produced in the towns of Imari and Arita; visit the deliciously elaborate Arita Porcelain Park to view pieces housed in a full-size reproduction of Germany’s Zwinger Palace and try your hand at producing your own porcelain piece.

Japanese Ceramics, Aritayaki, Saga, Kyushu, Japan
Saga is one of the main historic regions in the country for producing ceramic and pottery

The purposely secluded historic village of Okawachiyama is also a fascinating visit. Known as the Village of the Secret Kilns, the settlement was not always accessible to the public, but instead was populated by specialist potters, who held equal status to samurai, producing unique Nabeshima-yaki porcelain (named for the Nabeshima clan who ruled Saga from the 15th to 19th century). Saga’s unique history can also be tracked with a visit to the fascinating archaeological site of Yoshinogari Historical Park, which houses a sprawling settlement dating back to the Yayoi Period (300BC to 300AD).

Drink

While Kyushu is well known for the local liquor of shochu, Saga is home to quality Japanese sake, with the distinctive light, fruity Nabeshima sake representing the ultimate drop.

Stay

Located in Takeo Onsen, which dates its history back some 1300 years, Onyado Chikurintei is a charming traditional inn of just 11 rooms surrounded by gardens and stunning mountain scenery painted in vivid hues from season to season.

Onyado Chikurintei, Kyushu, Japan
Onyado Chikurintei is a charming traditional inn surrounded by gardens and stunning mountain scenery.

Kumamoto and Nagasaki

The prefectures of Kumamoto and Nagasaki are also worth time on your Kyushu itinerary. Visit Kumamoto Castle, one of the most famous in the country, and the lovely hot springs resort town of Kurokawa Onsen. Nagasaki has a long history of trade and interaction with the west, reflected in the historic European-style homes found here and the large Christian population; Glover Gardens in Nagasaki city is dotted with grand mansions that once belonged to the city’s expats.

Beautiful sunset at Kumamoto Castle in Kyushu, Japan
Visit Kumamoto Castle, one of the most famous in the country.

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These community homestays are changing how travellers experience Nepal

    After youth-led protests in 2025, this year Nepal elected a 35-year-old former rapper as Prime Minister. In a country where tourism is its biggest industry, what’s next for travellers? 

    In 1986, Nepal changed its clock. It had used India Standard Time since 1920 so, to differentiate, it wound its clock 15 minutes ahead of, not behind, its big-brother neighbour. Boss move. “Nepal is strongly opposed to the idea that our identity is connected to India,” says Community Homestay Network (CHN) guide Bikal Khanal.  

    Tharu dance
    Tharu dance is traditionally set to hand drums. (Credit: Kate Lewis)

    Today, Nepal is the only independent country with a 45-minute deviation to universal time; an oddity that’s become a symbol of national pride. The quirk is nearly as endearing as Kathmandu’s Tribhuvan airport where carved varnished wood and shiny red bricks rule. One sign points to a ‘Travelator’ and another to a ‘Grievance Handling Desk’ while visas are noisily stamped at customs for US dollars, cash only. When am I?  

    Nepal gray langur
    Spot the endemic Nepal gray langur. (Credit: Simon Urwin)

    The 15 or 45 minute anomaly sees me tap out completely on timezone calculations. Why bend my brain calculating if it’s quarter to or quarter past elsewhere when I’m in the honking here and now of Kathmandu where the air is high-altitude crisp, the prayer flags flutter and the street dogs howl?  

    How tourism is changing in Nepal

    Bardiya National Park
    Bardiya National Park is rich with wildlife. (Credit: Simon Urwin)

    India is not the only association many Nepalis would like to shake. With eight of the world’s 10 tallest mountains, including Mount Everest and Annapurna, Nepal has long attracted mountaineers and trekkers, and expedition numbers are continuing to rise.  

    Tourism is one of the country’s biggest sources of foreign currency, so this growth is not negative, per se. But according to Ang Tshering Lama, who co-founded Phaplu Mountain Bike Club, being reduced to a mere trekking destination is limiting.  

    “Trekking is just one layer of our identity,” says Ang. “When it becomes the dominant narrative, it limits how we’re seen and how we see ourselves.” Nepal’s recent success, however, in diverting trekkers to less-trafficked areas such as Manaslu mofuntain, where visitor numbers rose by 117 per cent last year, offers hope that tourism can diversify even more radically.   

    Local men in Bhada village
    Local men in Bhada village. (Credit: Simon Urwin)

    The founder of CHN, Shiva Dhakal, wants that change. “The whole idea of the Community Homestay Network is to promote experiences outside of trekking,” he says. “Community tourism changes lives and helps kids stay home instead of coming to the city or migrating to the Middle East.”  

    Ang grew up seeing people leave, “not because they wanted to but because there weren’t enough opportunities to stay”, he states. Yet from remote villages to living traditions; food, art, music and emerging subcultures, “there’s so much that’s not being seen.” 

    CHN is opening some of those doors. It doesn’t own, or fund, any homes. Rather, it promotes homestays to travellers on a single, slick platform, while fostering entrepreneurship in places where women, marginalised castes, Indigenous people and the youth stand to benefit the most.  

    A new generation demanding more

    Dalla Town Hall
    Dalla Town Hall, where volunteers discuss anti-poaching tactics. (Credit: Bheem Thapa)

    The future prospects of next-gen Nepalis can no longer be ignored. On a Kathmandu tour with 33-year-old guide Monica K.C, we pass buildings torched in the September 2025 ‘Gen Z protests’, including the Supreme Court and Parliament House. Seventy-two people died. “They were anti-corruption protests,” says Monica. “Politicians’ children are living a lavish life but the airports are crowded with youngsters leaving to find work.”  

    We stop in ‘little Tibet’ at the wondrous sixth-century Boudha Stupa. “The wheel of life is Buddhism in a nutshell,” says Monica. “Things such as hate, ignorance and anger keep you rotating around the wheel, so you must follow the principles of Buddhism to detach. If you can’t, there’s no nirvana for you.”  

    Boudha Stupa's prayer wheels
    Boudha Stupa’s prayer wheels are used to recite Buddhist prayers. (Credit: Kate Lewis)

    In a sun-drenched twist to the usual temple visit, we ascend the stupa’s sloping plinth and roam its whitewashed dome. Tendrils of diaphanous prayer flags stream from a steeple-like structure where the Buddha’s unblinking eyes stare out. No nirvana for you… 

    bouda stupa prayer flags
    Tibetan-style prayer flags embellish the whitewashed dome of Bouda Stupa, a Buddhist temple. (Credit: Kate Hennessy)

    The dome is delightfully free of guard rails or chiding from security. There is, however, a stern ‘No TikTok’ sign, perhaps in response to the youth’s newly flexed power. The booted-out Prime Minister, K.P. Sharma Oli, was replaced in a resounding election victory in March by 35-year-old Balendra Shah of the Rastriya Swatantra Party (RSP) – a former rapper and mayor of Kathmandu. The RSP’s manifesto indicates tourism is a priority, and that Nepal’s cultural identity in areas such as gastronomy will be strengthened.  

    Boudha Stupa vendors
    Vibrant souvenir shops and cafes around Boudha Stupa. (Credit: Kate Hennessy)

    A more confronting stop awaits at Pashupatinath Temple. Today is Bala Chaturdashi, a Hindu festival where thousands of devotees gather to honour their dead ancestors. Vendors hauling foam mattresses do a lucrative trade as people set up for a night of vigil. This includes burning the bodies of recently deceased relatives on bamboo pyres in the Bagmati River, which flows into the sacred Ganges.  

    A woman at annual Hindu festival Bala Chaturdashi
    A woman at annual Hindu festival Bala Chaturdashi, in Kathmandu. (Credit: Kate Hennessy)

    Wrapped in a shroud, the bodies are positioned with their heads facing north to the Himalayas where Lord Shiva resides. They’re covered with flowers and straw and set alight by male family members.  

    Hours later, the ashes are swept into the river where devotees will take a holy dip the next day. As much as Monica assures us it’s not voyeuristic to watch, I struggle to do so. “Here you see the reality of life because everyone ends up there,” she says, gesturing to the river.  

    Life unfiltered in the Terai region

    tharu woman
    Tharu woman and master weaver Parbati Chaudhary in Bhada Village. (Credit: Bheem Thapa)

    The reality of life needs processing time, which the western Terai region delivers in spades. The Terai is largely separated from India by the Karnali River and Bardiya National Park, where elephants, rhinos and the elusive Bengal tiger roam.  

    Once a nomadic tribe, the Indigenous Tharu people are now the largest ethnic group here. “They didn’t know their daily life was interesting for international travellers but they’re starting to understand now,” says CHN founder Shiva.  

    safari through Bardiya National Park
    Take a Jeep safari through Bardiya National Park. (Credit: Bheem Thapa)

    We fly Buddha Air to Dhangadhi airport and drive five hours to stay in Tharu homes. The journey to Bhada village is a blur of roadside fruit stalls, traffic-stopping sacred cows and fields sown with wheat, rice, mustard, spinach, cauliflower and potatoes. Nepal’s agriculture feeds only Nepal.  

    Marigolds
    Marigolds are an important part of Hindu rituals. (Credit: Simon Urwin)

    “The only thing we export is young people,” says our guide Bikal. As the light dims and we plunge evermore rural, mysterious mounds of compacted hay – some house-sized – loom like the creatures from Where The Wild Things Are. Even our trusty driver gets flummoxed by a dirt road that abruptly ends and we find ourselves hurtling across a paddock.  

    On arrival, some are ferried to mud-walled cottages greened by gourd creepers, with thatched roofs and rustic-chic mosquito nets. Myself and two others are ushered to the home of corner store owner, mechanic and mushroom farmer Man Kumar Chilaruwa and his wife Rajkumari.  

    community homestay entrance
    A warm welcome at a community homestay. (Credit: Simon Urwin)

    They escort us to a bunker-esque back building with steel doors and a folding security gate, behind which is gleaming linoleum, dolphin-printed tiles and a shower cavity that must be gingerly stepped through to reach the toilet.  

    The ceiling lights emit a rainbow of colours (the bathroom light gets stuck in, frankly, a quite frightening red). We’re nevertheless touched that our hosts invested in all this bling when the average salary is around $275 a month.  

    In the coming days, we participate in Tharu traditions such as making moonshine, dancing, weaving straw handicrafts and gold-panning. We’re fed well with staples of rice, mustard greens, lentil pancakes, daal, curried chicken and tomato chutney served on antibacterial saal leaves.  

    food at community homestay
    Dig in. (Credit: Kate Hennessy)

    Sonara community homestay president Indradevi Tharu tells us river snails are often served, and the boiled and pickled flesh of rats hunted in the rice fields. “Perhaps next time?” we say and all have a laugh.  

    The power of community homestays 

    community homestay owners in Nepal
    Barda community homestay owners Parbati Chaudhary and Ram Krishni Devi Chaudhary. (Credit: Simon Urwin)

    Immersing Western visitors in foreign cultural practices is not new. But with the Tharu, I never get that uneasy sensation that I’m being performed for. Despite being the only tourists, there’s no ‘othering’; just warm, composed and ultra-dignified welcomes. Like we’ve always been here.  

    “I love to have travellers in my village so I can see the world,” says local woman Parbati Chaudhary. “Why would I travel the world when the world comes to me?” 

    The graceful acceptance the Tharu offer, as well as the slow pace, works miracles on my frazzled nervous system. One day I even take a nap on a vacant homestay bed. 

    Sonara community room
    An authentic stay in the Sonara community. (Credit: Kate Hennessy)

    Roosters strut and goats bray as we sit on the ground in al fresco kitchens, rolling rice flour into cylinders steamed to make dhikri (dumplings). When water is needed, we fetch it using a hand-operated pump as a family of ducks strolls by, side-eying us like curious neighbours.  

    Animal lovers will delight in Tharu villages. Kind and resourceful inventions are everywhere, such as snacking stations where two posts lean together, with leafy boughs dangling on rope for baby goats to forage from.  

    CHN’s CEO, Aayusha Prasain, nods knowingly when one in our group says she cried when she left her host, Shayam Chaudhary, in Bhada. Shayam’s 17-year-old son, Prashant, had translated, which deepened the connection.  

    “Community tourism turns travel into a relationship, not a transaction,” says Aayusha. “It places decision-making power in the hands of local communities, especially women and youth.” Since 2018, CHN has hosted more than 4000 travellers from 52 countries in 408 households, and estimates women’s participation has increased by 381 per cent.  

    Elephant watch
    Elephant watch. (Credit: Simon Urwin)

    In the Bardiya community, where vexing human-animal conflict has been a balancing act for decades due to elephants raiding crops, long-time homestay operator Salik Ram Chaudhary says young people keep the older ones on their toes.  

    Gathering greens
    Gathering greens. (Credit: Bheem Thapa)

    “We can’t keep homestays stagnant,” he says. “We have to upgrade our service and redefine our product or young people won’t see it as an attractive business. If we can keep evolving with this travelling trend we’re confident the youths will stay and continue it.” 

    Back in Kathmandu, Monica explains that after the deaths of young protestors in September, a determination had spread to not let their sacrifice be in vain. “We want to keep holding the government accountable,” she says. “We don’t know what situation we’re facing, but we’re ready to face it.”  

    Interested in Nepal but prefer to experience it in total comfort? Read our guide to luxury travel in Nepal

    Kyushu: The Japanese island you've never heard of but will absolutely love