Your guide to two of Ireland’s most exhilarating road trips
| THIS ARTICLE WAS CREATED IN PARTNERSHIP WITH Tourism Ireland |
Ireland beckons. It calls you to lose yourself in the ever-changing beauty of its lyrical landscapes, in the music running through its veins, and the everyday poetry of the people you’ll meet along two of the Emerald Isle’s most majestic road journeys.
The Wild Atlantic Way unfurls along a staggeringly beautiful 2500-kilometre stretch of Ireland’s west coast, while North Ireland’s Causeway Coastal Route tempts you north for an at-times mythical, always-magical journey between Belfast and Derry-Londonderry. Here’s your guide to making the most of these Ireland road trips.
Discover your roots in Dublin
Fresh off an easy one-stop flight from Australia, Dublin presents a fantastic opportunity to ground yourself in Ireland’s history and culture before hitting the road.
Whether or not you’re one of the nearly 2.5 million Australians with Irish ancestry, EPIC The Irish Emigration Museum is a modern triumph of historical storytelling. Pre-book a consultation with a genealogist to trace your family’s local connections, or explore the award-winning museum, which brings the Irish diaspora to life in a moving, immersive way.
Bedding down? Try Brooks Hotel, known for its warm hospitality and Irish book of the month club (there’s a whiskey of the month, too), or plush boutique bolthole The Wilder.
The Wild Atlantic Way
Driving in Ireland is a (sea)breeze: you’ll be on the left and roads and attractions are well signposted, with electric and hybrid cars among the range of vehicles perfect for coastal cruising (check out the Car Rental Council of Ireland for reputable dealers).
From Dublin, a three-hour amble south-west to start the Wild Atlantic Way from Kinsale means you’ll be driving where rugged coastline and charming villages meet the mighty Atlantic Ocean. This former medieval fishing port in County Cork is a gentle rainbow riot of painted houses alongside charming seafood restaurants (try Fishy Fishy) and Michelin-level cuisine (think tiny Saint Francis Provisions, serving natural wines and local bounty, and Bastion Restaurant for fine dining). Stop by Kinsale Mead Co. to sample the honeyed flavours of the world’s oldest tipple.
Many Australian-bound convict ships sailed from Cork, with Mizen Head – Ireland’s most south-westerly point – likely their last glimpse of their homeland. Explore nearby Dursey Island via the country’s only cable car, then wind through the Ring of Kerry’s dramatic mountain passes, lakes and picturesque villages, stopping to meet the friendly locals who welcome newcomers to their pubs (try Dick Mack’s or Kate Kearney’s Cottage).
Characterful luxury accommodation abounds along the way, from the grandeur of Limerick’s Adare Manor to the glamping-style serenity of Hideaway at Dromquinna Manor in Kerry. Another highlight is the wallpapered splendour of Galway’s Ballynahinch Castle, its abundant walled garden producing seasonal fruit, vegetables and flowers. Gregans Castle Hotel – included in the Small Luxury Hotels of the World’s ‘Considerate Collection’ for its eco-conscious hospitality (it’s also hosted the likes of J.R.R. Tolkien and Seamus Heaney) – is in striking distance of the magnificent Cliffs of Moher, where you can contemplate the edge-of-the-world wildness and roiling ocean below.
Immerse yourself in the local pubs (Kenny’s Bar hosts regular live music), savour salmon prepared using ancient Irish techniques at Burren Smokehouse, or board a ferry from Doolin to explore the stone-walled, timeless beauty of the Aran Islands, where The Banshees of Inisherin was filmed.
Surfers will find their happy place in Sligo (try Strandhill Beach), where waves lap against verdant pastoral landscapes; don’t miss Classiebawn Castle near big-wave hotspot Mullaghmore Head. Witness some of Ireland’s prettiest beaches at Port Arthur in Donegal before ending your journey amongst the rustic loveliness of the Inishowen Peninsula, where you may even see the Northern Lights in the winter months.
The Causeway Coastal Route
For a shorter drive on the wildly beautiful side, steer two hours north from Dublin to Belfast to commence your journey along the Causeway Coastal Route.
Spend a night at Titanic Hotel Belfast, which tastefully nods to its ill-fated namesake in everything from decor to its location in the former shipbuilders’ HQ. Fine diner OX spotlights seasonal, local produce; for casual daytime eats, music, crafts and local chatter, head to St George’s Market.
North of the city, The Gobbins is billed as the most dramatic coastal walk in Europe, and is a thrilling convergence of nature’s primal forces and human engineering ingenuity. Afterwards, revive your spirits at what was once one of the smallest pubs in the country, Mary McBride’s, tucked away in the village of Cushendun.
Looking for a touch of fame? The Cushendun Caves are just one of many local jaw-dropping locations used for filming Game of Thrones, and nearby Ballygally Castle hosted some cast members. Stop by the beautifully modernised 17th-century castle for ocean views and tempting afternoon teas.
Northward, the drama intensifies, each turn producing staggering beauty punctuated by stroll-worthy sandy coves, quaint seaside villages and friendly pubs. Stop in Ballycastle, where the luxury eco lodges at The Salthouse Hotel offer views across to Rathlin Island; daytrip over to witness carpets of wildflowers and birdlife including puffins, razorbills and kittiwakes. Nearby historic private estate Limepark offers cosseting comfort in its sensitively restored eco-luxe farm cottages.
The most dramatic reveal comes at UNESCO World Heritage-listed site the Giant’s Causeway. Here, 40,000-odd interlocking basalt columns create a geological cacophony of rock tumbling towards the churning ocean – the result, according to legend, of a giant ripping up the bridge his nemesis built to reach Scotland. Nearby, test your mettle above the crashing waves as you traverse the rope bridge at Carrick-a-Rede.
Tracking west, you’ll find the romantic ruins of 16th-century Dunluce Castle, crumbling gracefully at the cliff’s edge. Take a bracing dip at the sweeping Portstewart Strand – perhaps sampling its new hot and cold therapy sauna – before feasting on fresh mussels and lobster at Harry’s Shack.
Derry-Londonderry is your final port of call, where you can toast your journey at the Walled City Brewery after a wonderful day of sightseeing.
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