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Three wild reasons Kluane is Canada’s Yellowstone

Steve Madgwick

This little-known national park may not be on your radar now, but you’ll be hard-pressed to wipe it from your memory later.

 

Here’s why Kluane National Park could very well trump its famous American counterpart. Writes Steve Madgwick.

 

Quick quiz: name Canada’s tallest mountain? Bonus point if you can name the range that it’s in (clue: it hosts all of Canada’s 18 highest mountains).

If you guessed somewhere in the Rocky Mountains, around Alberta or BC, well… don’t feel too bad, you’re only a couple of thousand kilometres off the mark. For those of you who haven’t Googled it yet, the answer is Mount Logan, which at 5959 metres protrudes 64 metres higher than fabled Kilimanjaro. The bonus-point answer? St Elias Mountains, which straddle the south-west corner of the Yukon, spilling over into Alaska.

The touchstone for this festival of massifs is Kluane National Park [pronounced Kloo-ah-nay], which is part of one of the largest UNESCO World Heritage Site on Earth. Although this is just a couple of hours’ drive from Yukon’s capital, Whitehorse, you can always find a piece of the humungous landscape all for yourself, even in the gloriously long summer days of the Yukon’s peak road-trip season.

Here are three reasons why we think Kluane can not only live up to the much-celebrated Yellowstone National Park, but just about any other national park you dare to name.

 

1. Because you can fly into a land of glaciers…

The view from the diminutive settlements that squat along the Alaska Highway under the mountains of Kluane National Park’s eastern borders is unmistakably grand. But, ironically, these very mountains hide something far greater than little towns with forlorn names like Destruction Bay: one of the world’s most extensive and exquisite gathering of glaciers. Unless you’re a mountaineer with uncommon skills, however, the only real way to appreciate the scope of this secret ice kingdom is by plane.

Icefield Discovery’s itty-biddy (4 passengers) Helio Couriers are one of the most manoeuvrable small planes around, perfect for alpine flying, and also nimble enough to land high up on the glaciers, letting you walk and explore where few humans ever will (weather permitting). The ‘flightseeing’ highlights start the second you lift off the rudimentary runway on the banks of Kluane Lake. Down low, at the chaos of the glacier’s terminus, deep aqua and white ice fingers kneed deeply into the mud and dark rock. The valley soon opens up as you shadow the 70-kilometre Kaskawulsh Glacier, five kilometres wide in some places and between 700 and 1200 metres thick.

Kaskawulsh’s extensive icy blue paths are divided by ultra-defined medial moraines (the rubble where two glaciers meet), which, from high up, make them look like a massive natural highway. And this is just one of the around 2000 glaciers in the area whose meltwater rivulets and waterfalls flow down into the valleys of both Canada and Alaska. If the clouds are kind, you’ll get to meet St Elias’s A-Team: the likes of Mt Kennedy and, fingers crossed, the biggest Canadian around, Mt Logan.

At first the glacial valleys looks predominately grey and white, but as the flight progresses the intense sunlight blasts back an unlikely array of colours: purples, oranges and steel greys. The deep blue pools atop the glaciers are almost too vivid to comprehend.

 

2. Because the hiking and wildlife here are in a league of their own…

Kluane National Park covers a landmass about the size of Wales, with a variety and scope of trails that will overwhelm the average hiker with choice, from lake-skirting strolls to high-alpine super-treks.

For the casual hiker seeking an easy but incredible pay-off, there are relative dawdles like Soldier’s Summit, which offers a sublime aspect of this area’s crown jewel, Kluane Lake, in less than an hour. The Yukon’s largest lake is right up there with Alberta’s Lake Louise for majesty. In the early evening, dust blows down off the glaciers and hangs in the valley air like a mist. It makes for a spectacularly spectral sunset selfie or two.

The 10-kilometre Sheep Creek Trail is an invigorating medium-intensity hike on which to get your boots dirty. The winding trail rises 1500 metres above the lake on its way to the altitudinous territory of the rare dall sheep (this is one of the only places in the world where you can commonly see them).

Head to lakeside Tachäl Dhäl (Sheep Mountain) Visitor Centre first for at least of couple of reasons. Number one: if you don’t feel like the hike, you can catch a glimpse of the sheep on the high ridges through one of the centre’s telescopes (no coins needed). And, number two: to get information on where the grizzlies are, because this place is bear-spotting heaven. (Watch the ‘bear aware’ video at the centre before you set off.)

If you’re a superhuman, the Parks Canada officers can suggest multi-day hikes to match your fitness and ambition, taking you as high as you want to go, onto the cusp of the glaciers, where it’s possible you’ll happen across a lynx, wolverine or one of the cavalcade of other critters in this wildlife-wealthy ark. There are plenty of more leisurely walking adventures below the behemoths of St Elias Mountains too, such as along the shoreline of Kathleen Lake (or you can canoe in its gentle waters).

For a change of pace, explore nearby ghost town Silver City. Some of the thick log-framed buildings of the former 1900s trading post still stand tall against the advancing forest, as if a lick of paint will bring them back to life. In others, elfin door frames and splintered roofs are all that remain. A rusting pick-up truck is a reminder that the town briefly resurged during construction of the Alaska Highway; its wooden tray more intact than its steel fenders which are on the way back to where they came from.

 

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3. Because there are plenty of off-the-grid log cabins options like this one…

“No rush, just sit and watch the mountains grow," says Brent Liddle, whose specialises in slowing people down. Brent and his partner, Wenda Lythgoe, own off-the-grid The Cabin B&B in Kluane’s southern reaches, just up Haines Road from the Alaskan border. Despite its singular-sounding name, the B&B comprises five log cabins dotted around a wonderful wooded acreage looking straight up at the St Elias behemoths.

The couple are self-confessed cabin hoarders, inspired by a trip around New Zealand’s South Island 20 years ago. Apart from the five available for rent, there is also a couple more ‘project cabins’ on site. Each cottage, named after some of the national park’s stand-out natural wonders, varies in size, style and vintage, but all sport mountain views and porches from where to enjoy them. Some were built on the property, while others were “dragged here". Inside, furniture has been custom-made to jigsaw into the one-off spaces.

Life off-grid in Yukon can be simple, slow, subtle and satisfying, once you attune. Each cabin gets the basics: propane-powered heaters and lights, and modest kitchenettes. And you have to wind your way along a little track through the trees to use the shared showers, to grill some local fish over the communal campfire, and to graze on Wenda’s hearty and healthy breakfasts at sun-up (her muffins are to die for).

Despite Brent’s opening serve, the ex-Parks Canada guide and naturalist can offer you plenty more than to just watch the mountains grow. What could be better than a challenging guided hike up to the pinnacle of King’s Throne Mountain in the morning only to retire on the deck of the King’s Throne cabin to view your conquest as the late evening sun sets? Not much, that’s what.

 

More: Kluane’s capital

Haines Junction is Kluane National Park’s de facto capital, with most services you should need on a road trip, including the extremely well-resourced Haines Junction Visitor Information Centre (about 70 kilometres from Tachäl Dhäl Visitor Centre, where there are few facilities and no shops). The pick of places to eat in Haines is Village Bakery, for its light breakfast burrito, decent cups of coffee, sweet treats including its espresso squares, reliable wi-fi, and weekend ‘salmon bake’ dinners accompanied by live music. It may be the fourth-largest settlement in Yukon, but with only 800 people in town don’t expect a bustling metropolis.



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5 things every hotel needs for a more restorative stay

    Kate Bettes Kate Bettes
    Wellbeing means different things to different travellers. Here’s how to pick a hotel that gets it right for you.

    The best wellness holidays aren’t necessarily spent wrapped in a spa robe. Sometimes they’re found around a dinner table in Cambodia, on a hiking trail in New Zealand or after finally beating jet lag on the other side of the world. The hotel you choose is what makes them happen.

    1. Easy access to good food

    meals from Novotel Bangkok Sukhumvit 20
    Taste delicious meals at Novotel Bangkok Sukhumvit 20.

    One of the quickest ways to derail healthy habits on holiday is to spend half of it working out where to eat instead of digging into the culture around you. Thankfully, Novotel has done much of the hard work already, with chefs building menus that lean into the flavours, ingredients and traditions of each destination.

    In Sihanoukville, Cambodia, Korkor soup – often dubbed ‘Cambodian ratatouille’ – sits alongside raw blue crab dressed with lime and chilli, best enjoyed with views across the Gulf of Thailand.

    In the lovingly chaotic city of Bangkok, the presence of food cranks up the sociability. At Novotel Bangkok Sukhumvit 20, you can settle in with mango sticky rice and stranger-turned-friends beside the pool at Sky on 20 rooftop bar, or bring them along to tackle river prawns and stir-fried crab with holy basil at the buzzing Crab Paradise Dinner Buffet.

    Then Novotel Dubai Al Barsha welcomes you with a laidback twist on the level of indulgence the Middle Eastern city is best known for up on Deck Se7en. Looking towards Burj Al Arab, the rooftop lounge has everything from Mediterranean-style dishes like seabass ceviche to Italian prosecco sundowners.

    At the other end of the scale, in the hills that surround the Novotel Bali Ubud Resort, calm comes from nature. At Siralada restaurant, Balinese traditions shape the menu while thunder rumbles over the surrounding jungle – proving the setting is as nourishing as the food itself.

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    Novotel Bali Ubud Resort room
    Sleep deeply with Novotel.

    There are few travel experiences more disappointing than arriving in a new country, determined to seize the day, only to fall asleep fully clothed by 3pm.

    For Australian travellers, jet lag is often an unavoidable part of the journey. That’s one reason Novotel runs sleep-focused initiatives that help guests adjust quickly without compromising on health. We’re talking partnerships with Sydney-based sleep specialist Olivia Arezzolo, known for her advice on everything from better sleep habits to beating jet lag, alongside features like pillow menus, in-room yoga content and tailored sleep guidance.

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    woman hiking around queenstown new zealand
    Stay at Novotel Queenstown Lakeside and explore local hiking trails. (Credit: GettyI mages/ naruedom)

    Every place in the world has its own way of getting you moving: whether that’s hiking up ice-bitten mountains before a sauna or gentle stretching by the pool before a facial. From fitness centres to spas, Novotel recognises that wellbeing rarely looks the same.

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    Bali, of course, takes a softer approach. At Novotel Bali Ubud Resort or Novotel Bali Nusa Dua, movement is less about conquering a mountain and more about a dance class between the tropical gardens and lagoon pools. Afterwards, the spa takes over, with traditional treatments like a Lulur body scrub: a combination of rice, turmeric, sandalwood, ginger and jasmine that’ll soothe muscles already relaxed by the Balinese heat.

    4. Better connections

    Novotel Sharm El Sheikh
    Kids will love a stay at Novotel Sharm El Sheikh.

    One of the best things about travel is that it gives your family stories you’ll be telling for years. Novotel helps create them with activities that bring everyone together, whether that’s trying something new, learning a local skill, or simply spending more time together.

    Go for a distinctly Thai twist at Novotel Phuket Vintage Park, where many of the family activities draw on local culture. Kids can try everything from beginner Thai boxing and language lessons to umbrella painting and – a pastime beloved by children the world over – pool foam parties. Everyone is welcome to join in, whether that’s getting splashed, covered in paint, or simply watching their children discover a new side of Thailand during the dedicated Family & Kids Day.

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    5. Location is everything

    Surin Beach, Choeng Thale, Thalang District, Phuket, Thaiföld
    Explore Phuket’s gorgeous beaches. (Credit: Bence Biczo)

    Everyone’s idea of wellness looks a little different. With more than 600 hotels across 65 countries, Novotel gives guests the freedom to choose the destination that suits them best. Whether that’s a beachside escape in Phuket, an alpine expedition in Queenstown or a city break in Bangkok, there’s a good chance a Novotel isn’t far away.

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