How to spend 48 hours in Jakarta

There can be few places that encapsulate the diversity of the world’s most populous island nation in quite the same way as Sunda Kelapa harbour does. The sweeping bows of majestic timber schooners throw shadows across the dock as tattooed Dayak wharfies from Borneo and swarthy Bugis deckhands from Sulawesi offload trade-goods from all over the islands. The ghost of Joseph Conrad seems to drift evocatively through the scent of cloves and timber.