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Steven Dupont: Photography from the other side

International Traveller

Here we chat with one of Australia’s most renowned and awarded photojournalists, Stephen Dupont, about his astounding travels.

Stephen Dupont is one of Australia’s most renowned and awarded documentary photographer and photojournalists, following his lens to the edge of the world and back, producing extraordinary photo essays from some of the most dangerous and astounding countries.

Here he talks about his unique travel experiences.

 

What are your earliest childhood memories of travelling abroad?

I guess my earliest memory was when I was five and my parents took me to Denmark because that’s where my family are from. I remember being excited about visiting places like Legoland, like most five-year-olds would be.

I also remember flying to Canada, via the US, and my mum and dad were taken away by American customs because there were some problems with their visa. We were put in this separate room whilst things were being worked out. I guess it was my first experience of having a shakedown by American customs and then being semi-deported to Canada.
In Canada, there were amazing national parks and I vividly remember the bears coming down to the houses at night and raiding the rubbish bins.

 

East Timor (Stephen Dupont)
East Timor (Stephen Dupont)

 

It’s hard because you probably take your camera with you wherever you travel, so you may not experience a holiday the way most of us would – but tell us what you would consider as your favourite holiday.

Holiday as opposed to work – it can be hard to distinguish between them.

Right now I would probably say my favourite holiday was Bali. I know its clichéd but I really enjoy it. We recently went and stayed in a villa just outside of Ubud in a place called Villa Naga and loved it. Bali is everything you want in a holiday – it has great food, great accommodation, there are beaches to enjoy and also great wilderness sites like the interiors of volcanos. And of course you can also do it in luxury but affordably – especially if you stay in a villa.

 

Havana (Stephen Dupont)
Havana (Stephen Dupont)

 

What is your best travel experience?

I would say travelling through the Panshir Valley by horse and foot in Afghanistan, crossing though Nuristan and the Hindu Kush Mountains, and ending up in Chitral in Pakistan.
It truly was an extraordinary journey because it was just after the September 11 attacks in 2001, and the new war on terrorism had just erupted in Afghanistan.

This route was the only way I could get out of Afghanistan safely and fast. Getting a helicopter would have been a nightmare. I got advice from a friend who knew Afghanistan well and after communicating with Afghani warlords we rented three armed guards and some horses. It took us about five days to travel though the Hindu Kush to Pakistan.

When we reached the border into Pakistan it was the beginning of anti-America fever so anyone who looked remotely American was in danger. We jumped on a mini bus and travelled to Islamabad through rioting crowds who were trying to kill Americans. It wasn’t a holiday but it was a life experience for which I am thankful for and will never forget.

 

Stephen Dupont on the job as a photographer (by Luigi Baldelli)
Stephen Dupont on the job as a photographer (by Luigi Baldelli)

 

What are five places where you have been that you suggest everyone should see in their lifetime?

I would say Havana in Cuba and The Himalayas (including places like Tibet, Nepal and Kashmir).

India has also always been one of my favourite destinations of any country. I spent one year travelling by train through India and have been back about 20 times. Anywhere there is amazing, especially during the Kumbh Mela, a large Hindu festival.

As a city, I think New York is one of the greatest in the world – it’s an artistic hub and a wonderful concrete jungle.

And I would also honestly say Afghanistan. I hope that one day there will be peace and that people will be able to go there for holidays. It is truly one of the most beautiful countries that I have ever seen both geographically and spiritually.

 

Kandahar, (Stephen Dupont)
Kandahar, (Stephen Dupont)

 

Can you tell us anything about Afghanistan that is different from what people who haven’t been there would associate with the country?

I am pushing about 20 trips there now; I recently went back again a few months ago.

Bamiyan, in the centre of the country, is the most beautiful place I have ever seen. There are mountain ranges and small villages, and it used to be the place where the largest buddhas in the world stood before they were destroyed by the Taliban about 10 years ago. Near by is Band-e Amir, a beautiful collection of turquoise lakes. The area is very isolated and deadly quiet with surrounding mountain range peaks and the travelling pilgrims. Any great traveller would be in awe of this place.

 

Kumbh Mela, India (Stephen Dupont)
Kumbh Mela, India (Stephen Dupont)

 

How safe would you say it is to travel here?

It’s pretty safe to travel to – the New Zealanders are protecting the local area and the local Hazara people hate the Taliban, and the Pashtuns, and are pretty pro-Westerners and Americans. They don’t mind the tourists. To get there, you have to be adventurous enough to fly into Kabul. From there you can hire a car and a driver who will take you to Bamiyan. It’s not the cheapest once you start hiring a car and driver – maybe a couple hundred dollars a day, but you must bare in mind you are in a remote place.

It’s not hard to find accommodation especially if you’re not fussy. You may even end up sleeping in a Chai resthouse with other Afghan travellers.

 

What is the best piece of travel writing you have ever read?

Travels with Herodotus by Ryszard Kapuscinski.

He is a polish travel writer and journalist who I find very inspirational.

 

Kumbh Mela, India (Stephen Dupont)
Kumbh Mela, India (Stephen Dupont)

 

What are three things you always travel with?

My camera gear of course! I also will never leave home without a good book, I am a mad reader. I always take a fiction and a non-fiction book. I much prefer to read real books, I don’t like the Kindle.

And, my passport… I wouldn’t get very far without that!

 

Bucharest (Stephen Dupont)
Bucharest (Stephen Dupont)

 

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What would you consider to be your favourite item that you have purchased overseas?

My Afghan rugs – they are beautiful.

 

Afgn Yangi Qale, Afghanistan (Stephen Dupont)
Afgn Yangi Qale, Afghanistan (Stephen Dupont)

 

What would your worst ever travel experience be?

Although I have many, almost being blown up in Afghanistan would probably be on the top of my list!
In 2008 I was travelling through Afghanistan, and was in a village called Khogyani in Nangahar Province when a suicide bomb exploded close to where I was. A lot of people around me were killed.

 

What would be on the top of your bucket list to travel to right now?

Anywhere in South America like Colombia, Bolivia and Argentina.

 

The Road to Bamian (Stephen Dupont)
The Road to Bamian (Stephen Dupont)

 

Do you have any favourite hotels that you have stayed in overseas?

Banyan Tree in Bangkok – they have a nice skybar. The Four Seasons in Amman, Jordan, is also very nice.

Bamian (Stephen Dupont)
Bamian (Stephen Dupont)

 

Do you have a favourite photograph that you have taken overseas that you feel really illustrates the genuine essence of a place?

I took a black and white photograph in India at the Kumbh Mela and now have it as a large panoramic canvas hanging in my house.
It shows the crowds of pilgrims sitting by the edge of the River Ganges.

I like this photo because it is completely timeless, when you look at the photo you can’t tell from which era it was taken.

Feel Inspired? Stephen has teamed up with another of Australia’s talented documentary photographers, Jack Picone, to offer the intrepid traveller and camera lover a holiday with a difference.
They run five-day documentary/travel photography workshops that take place around the world, visit stephendupont.com for more information.

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5 things every hotel needs for a more restorative stay

    Kate Bettes Kate Bettes
    Wellbeing means different things to different travellers. Here’s how to pick a hotel that gets it right for you.

    The best wellness holidays aren’t necessarily spent wrapped in a spa robe. Sometimes they’re found around a dinner table in Cambodia, on a hiking trail in New Zealand or after finally beating jet lag on the other side of the world. The hotel you choose is what makes them happen.

    1. Easy access to good food

    meals from Novotel Bangkok Sukhumvit 20
    Taste delicious meals at Novotel Bangkok Sukhumvit 20.

    One of the quickest ways to derail healthy habits on holiday is to spend half of it working out where to eat instead of digging into the culture around you. Thankfully, Novotel has done much of the hard work already, with chefs building menus that lean into the flavours, ingredients and traditions of each destination.

    In Sihanoukville, Cambodia, Korkor soup – often dubbed ‘Cambodian ratatouille’ – sits alongside raw blue crab dressed with lime and chilli, best enjoyed with views across the Gulf of Thailand.

    In the lovingly chaotic city of Bangkok, the presence of food cranks up the sociability. At Novotel Bangkok Sukhumvit 20, you can settle in with mango sticky rice and stranger-turned-friends beside the pool at Sky on 20 rooftop bar, or bring them along to tackle river prawns and stir-fried crab with holy basil at the buzzing Crab Paradise Dinner Buffet.

    Then Novotel Dubai Al Barsha welcomes you with a laidback twist on the level of indulgence the Middle Eastern city is best known for up on Deck Se7en. Looking towards Burj Al Arab, the rooftop lounge has everything from Mediterranean-style dishes like seabass ceviche to Italian prosecco sundowners.

    At the other end of the scale, in the hills that surround the Novotel Bali Ubud Resort, calm comes from nature. At Siralada restaurant, Balinese traditions shape the menu while thunder rumbles over the surrounding jungle – proving the setting is as nourishing as the food itself.

    While at Novotel Nha Trang, chef Kieu Thi My Hanh and her team showcase Vietnam’s knack for balancing freshness, texture and fragrant herbs. Pho remains a favourite, while seafood salad with pomelo and mango brings those flavours together in one bright dish.

    It’s all an approach backed by partnerships with expert food creators such as Alfie Steiner, whose plant-forward recipes prove healthy food should never taste plain.

    2. Better sleep options

    Novotel Bali Ubud Resort room
    Sleep deeply with Novotel.

    There are few travel experiences more disappointing than arriving in a new country, determined to seize the day, only to fall asleep fully clothed by 3pm.

    For Australian travellers, jet lag is often an unavoidable part of the journey. That’s one reason Novotel runs sleep-focused initiatives that help guests adjust quickly without compromising on health. We’re talking partnerships with Sydney-based sleep specialist Olivia Arezzolo, known for her advice on everything from better sleep habits to beating jet lag, alongside features like pillow menus, in-room yoga content and tailored sleep guidance.

    The sooner you’re operating on local time, the sooner you can get back to more pressing matters – like deciding which spa treatment to book.

    3. More ways to move

    woman hiking around queenstown new zealand
    Stay at Novotel Queenstown Lakeside and explore local hiking trails. (Credit: GettyI mages/ naruedom)

    Every place in the world has its own way of getting you moving: whether that’s hiking up ice-bitten mountains before a sauna or gentle stretching by the pool before a facial. From fitness centres to spas, Novotel recognises that wellbeing rarely looks the same.

    At Novotel Queenstown Lakeside, activity is inescapable. Here, hiking trails, ski fields, bungee jumps, and white-water rafting have made the region famous. The hotel’s location on the shores of Lake Wakatipu means less time spent organising yourself and more time out there experiencing them. To top it all off, you can book a private hot tub for the evening before heading back into the wilderness tomorrow.

    Bali, of course, takes a softer approach. At Novotel Bali Ubud Resort or Novotel Bali Nusa Dua, movement is less about conquering a mountain and more about a dance class between the tropical gardens and lagoon pools. Afterwards, the spa takes over, with traditional treatments like a Lulur body scrub: a combination of rice, turmeric, sandalwood, ginger and jasmine that’ll soothe muscles already relaxed by the Balinese heat.

    4. Better connections

    Novotel Sharm El Sheikh
    Kids will love a stay at Novotel Sharm El Sheikh.

    One of the best things about travel is that it gives your family stories you’ll be telling for years. Novotel helps create them with activities that bring everyone together, whether that’s trying something new, learning a local skill, or simply spending more time together.

    Go for a distinctly Thai twist at Novotel Phuket Vintage Park, where many of the family activities draw on local culture. Kids can try everything from beginner Thai boxing and language lessons to umbrella painting and – a pastime beloved by children the world over – pool foam parties. Everyone is welcome to join in, whether that’s getting splashed, covered in paint, or simply watching their children discover a new side of Thailand during the dedicated Family & Kids Day.

    A different adventure awaits at Novotel Sharm El Sheikh. Kids could be perfectly content with discos, drawing classes and new holiday friends, but the Red Sea has other ideas. Sitting on the edge of Naama Bay, days here might involve snorkelling colourful reefs, taking a boat trip to Ras Mohammed National Park or heading into the desert by quad bike or camel for a Bedouin-style dinner beneath the stars.

    5. Location is everything

    Surin Beach, Choeng Thale, Thalang District, Phuket, Thaiföld
    Explore Phuket’s gorgeous beaches. (Credit: Bence Biczo)

    Everyone’s idea of wellness looks a little different. With more than 600 hotels across 65 countries, Novotel gives guests the freedom to choose the destination that suits them best. Whether that’s a beachside escape in Phuket, an alpine expedition in Queenstown or a city break in Bangkok, there’s a good chance a Novotel isn’t far away.

    All that’s left? Choosing your version of wellbeing.

    Discover stays to inspire your everyday at novotel.accor.com.

    Stephen Dupont: Photography From the Other Side