From its wildlife to its vibrant culinary scene, there’s more to Panama’s eponymous capital city than its iconic canal. And you can experience all the highlights in an action-packed few days.

At the crossroads of two continents – and two oceans – Panama City has been a meeting point for people and ideas for centuries. With its rich history, mosaic of cultures and incredible biodiversity on its doorstep, it’s one of Central America’s most beguiling cities.

Yet, until recently, it was largely overlooked by visitors beyond intrepid backpackers and curious cruisers. That’s now changing as investment continues to pour into Casco Viejo, the city’s compact Old Town, which has transformed from a 1980s slum into a thriving tourism hub.

There’s also plenty to see beyond the World Heritage-listed streets of Casco Viejo. And with the city’s most interesting attractions – and top restaurants – all located within a 20-minute Uber ride, you can squeeze in a lot during a short stay.

But if you’re keen to avoid crowds, it would be wise to visit soon. With Panama’s visitor numbers increasing by a whopping 43 per cent from 2022 to 2024 to 2.8 million annual arrivals, this underrated nation – one of Central America’s safest – is increasingly cementing its place on the Latin American travel map.

Day one

7AM: Resist the urge to sleep in at the elegant Sofitel Legend Casco Viejo – a boutique hotel that has breathed new life into an elite social club building abandoned in the 1930s – and join locals for a morning walk up Cerro Ancón.

It’s only a nine-minute Uber ride to the base of this jungle-clad hill rising 199 metres above the city, where a sealed path curls towards the summit topped with a giant Panamanian flag. A remarkable volume of wildlife can be spotted en route, including hummingbirds, sloths, toucans, armadillos, agouti (tropical rodents) and maybe even a red-crested Geoffroy’s tamarin. Allow at least an hour for the 3.4-kilometre return walk.

8:30AM: Return to your hotel for breakfast at its signature restaurant, Caleta. Try the Panamanian brekkie with eggs, corn tortillas, chicken tamale and beef carimañolas (stuffed yuca fritters), before exploring the pastel-hued streets of Casco Viejo.

Must-visit museums include the Mola Museum, celebrating the vibrant textiles hand-stitched by Indigenous Kuna (Guna) artisans and the Museo del Canal Interoceanico de Panama (Panama Canal Museum), with its detailed exhibits covering every imaginable aspect of the newly controversial canal. And don’t miss the Iglesia de San José (San José Church) protecting the Altar de Oro (Golden Altar). It’s the sole relic salvaged from Panama Viejo, the city’s original European settlement, after it was razed by Welsh buccaneer Henry Morgan in 1671.

12:30PM: Experience a fonda (traditional roadside restaurant) at one of Casco Viejo’s best, Fonda Lo Que Hay, which serves up dishes with a modern twist.

Think ‘sexy clams’ with garlic, pumpkin and cashew nuts; octopus with green curry and coconut rice; and daily chalkboard specials. The clue is in the name: they serve lo que hay (‘whatever there is’).

2:30PM: See how ships transit through the Panama Canal locks at its Miraflores Visitor Center, a 20-minute drive from Casco Viejo. The entrance ticket includes access to a wheelchair-accessible viewing deck and an IMAX Theatre, where a 45-minute 3D film narrated by Morgan Freeman is shown eight times a day from 8:45am. Or take an Uber to the riot of primary colours on the Amador Causeway, better known as the Frank Gehry-designed Biomuseo, for an immersive introduction to Panama’s biological and cultural diversity.

7PM: It’s only a short stroll from your hotel to dinner at Kaandela, the cosy contemporary restaurant anchoring the eight-room Armala Boutique Hotel, set in an exquisitely restored 1921 building.

Driven by the grill, stand-out dishes include the ‘pork belly pops’ with kimchee and grapefruit ceviche, and the skirt steak with recao (a flavour-packed combination of herbs) chimichurri. Intimate cocktail bar Element is a tempting spot for a nightcap around the corner on Calle Oeste.

Day two

7:30AM: After an early hotel breakfast, fill your water bottle (the city’s tap water is safe to drink) and enjoy another superb nature walk in the 232-hectare Parque Natural Metropolitano, just a 10-minute drive from Casco Viejo, before the tropical heat sets in. An oasis of biodiversity, it’s another great place to spot wildlife – particularly sloths and howler monkeys – without leaving the city.

10AM: Cross the city to the coastal ruins of Panama Viejo, the original Panama City settled in 1519. Climb the stairs into the 1626 cathedral tower, one of its best-preserved structures, for views over the 28-hectare site juxtaposed against the skyscrapers of the modern city surrounding it. Charting the site’s history over 1500 years – including displays of pre-Columbian burial chambers unearthed here – the excellent Museum Plaza Mayor also offers a welcome blast of air conditioning.

Midday: Uber back to Casco Viejo and alight at the Café Coca Cola, established in 1875, for a cold drink in a history-steeped setting. Then satiate your hunger at the Snack Shack, one of the best spots in the Old Town for a wholesome, casual lunch; try the ceviche.

2PM: You’ve earned a relaxing afternoon lounging beside the Sofitel’s pool with a cañatini (dark rum, sugar cane honey, lime juice and coconut water) in-hand. If you’ve still got stamina for sightseeing (or shopping), head downtown to admire the fine collection of Panamanian art at the privately owned Museo de Arte Contemporáneo or shop for textiles directly from Kuna (Guna) artisans at the stalls on Paseo Esteban Huertas, south from your hotel.

7:30PM: Locals will tell you the city’s best dining is in the (new) city. Indeed, two of its restaurants were named among Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurants in 2024.

Reserve a table at MAITO to sample Mario Castrellón’s refined take on contemporary Panamanian cuisine, fusing flavours from the myriad cultures that have shaped it, with a choice of à la carte or a nine-course degustation. Or head to Cantina del Tigre to try chef Fulvio Miranda’s reimagined Panamanian dishes spanning octopus croquettes to langoustine tamale, paired with fruity cocktails – papaya negroni, anyone?

These restaurants are located in the San Francisco area alongside Intimo and La Tapa del Coco, both listed in the extended top 100 list of Latin America’s Best Restaurants.