How to enjoy the mild side of Ibiza

A haven for party people on one side, Ibiza is a sanctuary of calm and quiet serenity on the other. Annemique de Kroon explores the charms of the latter, guided by three locals.

Getting there

Fly to Barcelona or Valencia and take a plane or ferry from there.

Staying there

The Giri Residence

A boutique hotel in the north (about half-an-hour from the airport) with five suites where ‘tradition meets fashion’.
It also has a cafe on the nearby square (Plaza de España).
Calle Principal 3-5, San Juan

Atzaró

An old orange farm turned into an elegant oasis, with Buddhas and bougainvillea, a lovely pool and a great restaurant.
Carretera Sant Joan, Km 15

Es Cucons

A simple but stylish rural hotel (15 rooms) in a centuries-old finca.
It also has a nice shop of the same name with clothes and accessories in nearby Santa Gertrudis.
Cami des Pla de Corona 110, Santa Agnés de Corona

Drinking there

Bar Anita

The ‘first hippie bar’ of Ibiza continues to serve tapas, beer and wine in a welcoming ambiance.
On a corner opposite the church, San Carlos de Peralta

Sunset Ashram

Mingle with the party people and the young at heart for a sunset Indian dinner and massage.
Cala Conta, Carretera San Augustin, San José

Bars at Cala d’Hort

Crazy for sunsets? The bars and restaurants at Cala d’Hort offer an additional bonus: Es Vedrà is an imposing rock in the sea, 400 metres high, right in front of the beach.

Eating there

Aubergine

Serving delicious, organic lunch and (usually, but not always) dinner in the countryside, Aubergine has to be the loveliest newcomer on the scene, with a farmers’ market on Sundays.
Sant Miquel Road, Km 9.9, between Santa Gertrudis and Sant Miguel

Paloma Cafe

Located in an old finca with a garden enveloped by citrus trees.
San Lorenzo

Wild Beets

Raw, vegan, plant-based deliciousness in cool and airy surroundings with friendly staff.
Calle Venda de Llatzer 9, Santa Gertrudis de Fruitera

Taco Paco

Mexican/German/Ibizan couple Dario and Franziska run this popular ‘Mexiterranean’ restaurant where favourites include nachos with guacamole and prawn ceviche.
Carrer de Sant Jaume 34, Santa Eulalia

Can Cosmi

Established in 1951 and renowned for its tortilla, Can Cosmi is surrounded by almond orchards that bloom in January and February.
Opposite the whitewashed church in Santa Agnes

Bambuddha

For a more sophisticated outing dine in (Asian) style at Bambuddha, superbly attended to by dozens of friendly waiters dressed in black.
Carretera de San Juan, Km 8.5, Santa Eulalia del Río

Shopping there

Libro Azul

A neighbourly bookshop in a residential area of Santa Gertrudis; German owned, with quite a large selection of English books.
Carrer Venda de Parada 21, Santa Gertrudis

The Rose

Contemporary artwork and handmade silk clothes in vibrant colours.
Venda de fruitera 2, Santa Gertrudis

Te Cuero

On the village square of Santa Gertrudis, Te Cuero has a good selection of bags and belts.
Plaza de la Iglesia 6, Santa Gertrudis

Sluiz

Dutch-owned furniture shop or, rather, slightly megalomaniac warehouse: a never-ending display of design and fun accessories for the home.
Carretera Ibiza – San Miguel, Km 4, Santa Gertrudis

What to do

The first time I set foot on Ibiza was about 15 years ago. I arrived by boat from mainland Spain on a quiet day in the indeterminate days between Christmas and New Year. This time, I arrive by
plane during the ebb of the high season and I have a hard time recognising its capital, Ibiza Town.

The old city is drowning in modern additions: a marina with yachts surrounded by hotels and apartment buildings. It is clear to me that the Ibiza I knew all those years ago has moved on but, as I am about to discover, there are still many new delights to discover in La Isla Blanca’s old heart.

Why Ibiza is known as La Isla Blanca, the white island, is not entirely clear. It could be because most of the houses are painted white, or the fact that white mists cover the fields on winter mornings, making sailors claim that, from the sea at sunrise, Ibiza looks like a bank of clouds.

Regardless, the so-called white island is actually made up of red earth; the hills are covered with pine trees and the valleys blanketed with olive, orange and almond groves. And because of its modest dimensions, the turquoise waters of the Mediterranean are never far away.

Driving the roads that snake through the mountains offers scenery fit for car commercials; villages are not so much quaint as filled with character, with bright white churches and happy locals.

‘Gone to the beach’ – La Galeria Elefante store (lagaleria elefante.com)

Heat and silence

Aubergine is a new restaurant; its concept is farm to table. Every inch of it and its garden is Instagram-worthy, and the food is as pleasing to the palate as the surroundings are to the eye.

There is an on-site gallery with paintings by Italian artist Simona Marziani. Though the subject matter of her art is inspired by her travels to India and Bali, Simona’s paintings are infused with a spiritual sensitivity and luminosity that those places and Ibiza seem to have in common.

“Being in touch with nature and a more contemplative lifestyle in harmony with my environment are essential to me," says Simona. “Perhaps my paintings reflect a sense of peace and comfort that the island gives me."

Slender with sun-kissed curls, Simona came to Ibiza in 1997 to stay with a friend and felt so happy and relaxed she missed her flight home. “To tell the truth, I’ve never been attracted to Ibiza for the parties, craziness and nightclubs; that side has never resonated with me," she explains. “What I find special here is the sense of freedom and the open-minded and curious people from all over the world. Living on an island surrounded by the sea is a nice feeling; problems seem far away."

Driving from San Joan towards San Antonio, taking in views of farm houses, vineyards and fig trees and seeing rosemary bushes and wild fennel growing alongside the road, I pass through Santa Agnes.

Opposite a luminously white church sits Can Cosmi, where people have been coming to eat tortillas for over 60 years.

It is well after noon on a hot day as I sit on the verandah; the silence makes it possible to notice the chirp of the cicadas. María Costa y Pep Boned, the original owners, sit quietly inside in the shade. The only movement is the sudden jerk of María’s head as she resists sleep.

After I eat my tortilla, during the long scorching hours of the afternoon, I have to fight the temptation to surrender to the heat and the silence in a long siesta.

The island has turned canned fish into an art form.

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The hippie trail

Until the 1950s life on Ibiza was quite archaic, but in the ’60s the hippies came – locals speak of ‘antes’ (before) and ‘ahora’ (now) to distinguish the two eras.

They were on their way from London and Amsterdam to India and Afghanistan. Traces of hardcore flower-power life are not easy to find; maybe it is more the spirit that lives on.

People smile easily here and seem to have an open and adventurous spirit. Las Dalias started as a hippie market, but it has developed into a well-run operation that is occasionally transferred in its entirety to mainland Europe. In May this year, for example, the market will be set up in Amsterdam. Be it silver, mother of pearl, amethyst, rose quartz, lace, linen or leather, the market is filled with art, clothes and accessories to adorn the body and the home.

Evelyn Noan sells scents and perfumes at Las Dalias. Originally from Montevideo, Uruguay, she moved to Ibiza over 15 years ago.

“I chose Ibiza for the Mediterranean nature and its history. I am interested in Arabic culture and Ibiza has been home to Phoenicians, Punics and Arabs," she says. “My favourite places here are in the north of Ibiza, around San Juan, with stone houses from past centuries hanging on to the mountains; the terraces with citrus orchards offer amazing views. I also love to sail around the island, imagining how it looked to sailors and ancient traders of salt, raisins and wood."

One of Evelyn’s beloved memories is of a day of spring rain in the old Arab settlement of Buscastell, an untouched area with 10th-century irrigation channels, old Aleppo pines and orange trees.

One of the fragrant resins in her shop comes from these local pines.

“The resin from the Pinus halepensis has been used since ancient times by indigenous people on Ibiza and all around the Mediterranean," Evelyn explains. “The trees produce a fragrant resin that is extracted from old trees in our finca [agricultural land with farmhouse] by experienced locals during the warm months of the year." It is the ultimate souvenir, allowing visitors to bring home the scent of the island, which was called Pitiusas by the Greeks: the pine-covered island.

Night and day

The hippie vibe has never completely left Ibiza. Away from the raves and parties with millionaire DJs, whose faces stare at motorists from giant billboards along the highway, there is a softer, more bohemian side to the island. But the two do often intercept.

This is illustrated to me early one morning when I go to Cala Benirrás, a beach steeped in hippie history. While a girl practises yoga on the roof of a boathouse, a tourist boat enters the bay, its passengers gaping and snapping pictures of her in a perfect downward-facing dog.

The beach of Benirrás was recommended to me by Pepe Loscertales, the owner of Casa Naya, a ‘casa rural’ for guests in the hills near San Lorenzo.

Born in Huesca, near the Pyrenees “with lots of snow", Pepe moved to Ibiza over 40 years ago. Though the island has changed a lot over the past four decades, he is still enchanted by it.

“I think it is significant that this place still delights me after all these years. I like the summers when lots of people come to stay and enjoy everything Ibiza has to offer. Witnessing their joy can fill me with emotion," he says in his deep, tobacco-scorched voice. “And I love the calm winters, with pleasant temperatures and lots of little corners and places full of peace, freedom and tolerance. I feel very much alive on Ibiza and even though I wasn’t born here, I hope to spend the rest of my life here."

That night when I drive past a quiet street in Santa Gertrudis, I see a ‘cantina’ where, under fluorescent lights, local men are passionately playing a game of cards. Next to it sits a stylish restaurant with subdued light and atmosphere.

On Ibiza, locals, foreigners and visitors – the old and new – live peacefully side by side.

Wellbeing means different things to different travellers. Here’s how to pick a hotel that gets it right for you.

The best wellness holidays aren’t necessarily spent wrapped in a spa robe. Sometimes they’re found around a dinner table in Cambodia, on a hiking trail in New Zealand or after finally beating jet lag on the other side of the world. The hotel you choose is what makes them happen.

1. Easy access to good food

meals from Novotel Bangkok Sukhumvit 20 — Taste delicious meals at Novotel Bangkok Sukhumvit 20.

One of the quickest ways to derail healthy habits on holiday is to spend half of it working out where to eat instead of digging into the culture around you. Thankfully, Novotel has done much of the hard work already, with chefs building menus that lean into the flavours, ingredients and traditions of each destination.

In Sihanoukville, Cambodia, Korkor soup – often dubbed ‘Cambodian ratatouille’ – sits alongside raw blue crab dressed with lime and chilli, best enjoyed with views across the Gulf of Thailand.

In the lovingly chaotic city of Bangkok, the presence of food cranks up the sociability. At Novotel Bangkok Sukhumvit 20, you can settle in with mango sticky rice and stranger-turned-friends beside the pool at Sky on 20 rooftop bar, or bring them along to tackle river prawns and stir-fried crab with holy basil at the buzzing Crab Paradise Dinner Buffet.

Then Novotel Dubai Al Barsha welcomes you with a laidback twist on the level of indulgence the Middle Eastern city is best known for up on Deck Se7en. Looking towards Burj Al Arab, the rooftop lounge has everything from Mediterranean-style dishes like seabass ceviche to Italian prosecco sundowners.

At the other end of the scale, in the hills that surround the Novotel Bali Ubud Resort, calm comes from nature. At Siralada restaurant, Balinese traditions shape the menu while thunder rumbles over the surrounding jungle – proving the setting is as nourishing as the food itself.

While at Novotel Nha Trang, chef Kieu Thi My Hanh and her team showcase Vietnam’s knack for balancing freshness, texture and fragrant herbs. Pho remains a favourite, while seafood salad with pomelo and mango brings those flavours together in one bright dish.

It’s all an approach backed by partnerships with expert food creators such as Alfie Steiner, whose plant-forward recipes prove healthy food should never taste plain.

2. Better sleep options

Novotel Bali Ubud Resort room — Sleep deeply with Novotel.

There are few travel experiences more disappointing than arriving in a new country, determined to seize the day, only to fall asleep fully clothed by 3pm.

For Australian travellers, jet lag is often an unavoidable part of the journey. That’s one reason Novotel runs sleep-focused initiatives that help guests adjust quickly without compromising on health. We’re talking partnerships with Sydney-based sleep specialist Olivia Arezzolo, known for her advice on everything from better sleep habits to beating jet lag, alongside features like pillow menus, in-room yoga content and tailored sleep guidance.

The sooner you’re operating on local time, the sooner you can get back to more pressing matters – like deciding which spa treatment to book.

3. More ways to move

woman hiking around queenstown new zealand — Stay at Novotel Queenstown Lakeside and explore local hiking trails. (Credit: GettyI mages/ naruedom)

Every place in the world has its own way of getting you moving: whether that’s hiking up ice-bitten mountains before a sauna or gentle stretching by the pool before a facial. From fitness centres to spas, Novotel recognises that wellbeing rarely looks the same.

At Novotel Queenstown Lakeside, activity is inescapable. Here, hiking trails, ski fields, bungee jumps, and white-water rafting have made the region famous. The hotel’s location on the shores of Lake Wakatipu means less time spent organising yourself and more time out there experiencing them. To top it all off, you can book a private hot tub for the evening before heading back into the wilderness tomorrow.

Bali, of course, takes a softer approach. At Novotel Bali Ubud Resort or Novotel Bali Nusa Dua, movement is less about conquering a mountain and more about a dance class between the tropical gardens and lagoon pools. Afterwards, the spa takes over, with traditional treatments like a Lulur body scrub: a combination of rice, turmeric, sandalwood, ginger and jasmine that’ll soothe muscles already relaxed by the Balinese heat.

4. Better connections

Kids will love a stay at Novotel Sharm El Sheikh.

One of the best things about travel is that it gives your family stories you’ll be telling for years. Novotel helps create them with activities that bring everyone together, whether that’s trying something new, learning a local skill, or simply spending more time together.

Go for a distinctly Thai twist at Novotel Phuket Vintage Park, where many of the family activities draw on local culture. Kids can try everything from beginner Thai boxing and language lessons to umbrella painting and – a pastime beloved by children the world over – pool foam parties. Everyone is welcome to join in, whether that’s getting splashed, covered in paint, or simply watching their children discover a new side of Thailand during the dedicated Family & Kids Day.

A different adventure awaits at Novotel Sharm El Sheikh. Kids could be perfectly content with discos, drawing classes and new holiday friends, but the Red Sea has other ideas. Sitting on the edge of Naama Bay, days here might involve snorkelling colourful reefs, taking a boat trip to Ras Mohammed National Park or heading into the desert by quad bike or camel for a Bedouin-style dinner beneath the stars.

5. Location is everything

Surin Beach, Choeng Thale, Thalang District, Phuket, Thaiföld — Explore Phuket’s gorgeous beaches. (Credit: Bence Biczo)

Everyone’s idea of wellness looks a little different. With more than 600 hotels across 65 countries, Novotel gives guests the freedom to choose the destination that suits them best. Whether that’s a beachside escape in Phuket, an alpine expedition in Queenstown or a city break in Bangkok, there’s a good chance a Novotel isn’t far away.

All that’s left? Choosing your version of wellbeing.

Discover stays to inspire your everyday at novotel.accor.com.