The town in Japan that has no cars, just hikers

Kamikochi is a rare find – a car-free valley where autumn leaves blaze, rivers run clear and the only way to explore is on foot.

Tucked into the folds of Japan’s Northern Alps is a place where the air is crisp, the roads are silent and the landscape bursts into fiery colour come October. Welcome to Kamikochi – a secluded alpine valley so pristine that cars have been banned for more than 30 years.

This is one of Japan’s best-kept secrets: a 15-kilometre plateau perched at 1500 metres above sea level, lined with larch and maple trees, mirror-like rivers and misty mountain peaks. And in autumn, it transforms into one of the country’s most spectacular places to walk.

The car-free charm of Kamikochi

Private cars aren’t allowed in Kamikochi. (Image: Getty Images/Thananat)

Unlike many mountain destinations, Kamikochi has been purposefully kept wild. Private cars aren’t allowed into the valley, so visitors arrive via shuttle bus or taxi, leaving behind the honk and hum of modern life. This helps preserve both the fragile ecosystem and the meditative stillness that makes the area so special.

The result is a kind of time-capsule tranquillity. You walk, you breathe, you listen to nothing but birdsong, the breeze through the trees and the rush of the Azusa River.

A destination for walkers, not drivers

Kamikochi is suitable for all hiking abilities. (Image: Getty Images/visualspace)

Kamikochi is open from mid-April to mid-November, but autumn is when it truly comes alive. The walking trails here are world-class, catering to all kinds of hikers. A gentle, two- to three-hour loop from Taisho Pond to Myojin Bridge is a favourite for photographers and casual strollers alike, taking in golden larches and the reflection of snow-dusted peaks in still waters.

More seasoned walkers can continue further to the Karasawa Cirque, a challenging but rewarding hike that climbs to around 2300 metres. The payoff? A sweeping amphitheatre of craggy mountains painted in copper and crimson, often with early snow crowning the ridgelines.

Rich history and natural wonder

Kamikochi’s mountainous landscapes inspired Walter Weston. (Image: Tsubasa Takifuji)

British missionary and mountaineer Walter Weston helped introduce Kamikochi to the world in the late 1800s and played a pivotal role in introducing recreational mountain climbing to Japan.

Weston’s passion for Japan’s mountainous landscapes led him to explore the Japanese Alps extensively. In 1896, he published Mountaineering and Exploration in the Japanese Alps, a work that not only chronicled his adventures but also popularised the term “Japanese Alps” among Western audiences.

His efforts were instrumental in shifting the perception of mountain climbing in Japan from a religious practice to a recreational activity. In recognition of his contributions, the Japanese Alpine Club, established in 1906, appointed him as its first honorary member.

Myojin Pond is a peaceful pocket of stillness. (Image: Trevor Paxton)

Today, a bronze bust in his honour stands near the valley’s most iconic landmark: Kappa-bashi, or Kappa Bridge. Named after a mythical water creature from Japanese folklore, the bridge is now the central meeting point for many of the area’s trails and accommodation options.

From here, you can continue upriver toward the sacred Myojin Pond, a peaceful pocket of stillness ringed by mountains and pine. Shrines sit quietly at its edge, with local worshippers offering thanks to the gods of the water and mountains.

When to go and where to stay

Autumn is the most popular time to visit. (Image: Mahiru Dake)

The autumn leaves typically peak around mid to late October, though it depends on elevation and temperature shifts. It’s best to aim for weekdays if you can – the weekends can be busy with leaf-chasers from Tokyo and Nagano.

Stays range from rustic mountain huts to upscale ryokans and one very famous Western-style hotel, the Kamikochi Imperial Hotel. Built in the 1930s and made almost entirely from timber, it’s a destination in itself.

A rare kind of peace

Kamikochi is deeply peaceful in a way that feels increasingly rare. (Image: ryutoizumi33)

Kamikochi isn’t just beautiful – it’s deeply peaceful in a way that feels increasingly rare. The absence of traffic. The quiet trails through the glowing forest. The feeling of being completely immersed in nature. If you’re looking to slow down and soak up Japan’s wilder side, there’s nowhere better.

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