Swim alongside giant clams in a vibrant marine sanctuary before unwinding in a beach fale along Samoa’s pristine coastline.
The phrase “happy as a clam" rarely rings truer than on the Samoan island of Upolo. In the village of Savaia on the southwestern coast, a marine reserve protects approximately 80 large faisua (giant clams), plus a small flotilla of sea turtles. If you think Savaia’s vivid turquoise lagoon is impressive, wait until you see the clams’ iridescent blue and green mantles (their fleshy “lips"). For a small fee, which funds local conservation efforts, you can swim out to see the molluscs, some with shells a metre wide. Pack some nibbles, so you can rent a beach fale and relax post-swim.
Why Savaia?
The local Savaia community were concerned about damage to the marine environment caused by fishing, so in 2000 they rallied together for change. With support from the government, they established a sanctuary to protect coral, giant clams and other marine life, including turtles.
Giant clams, the world’s largest bivalve mollusc, weigh an average of 200 kilograms and can live up to 100 years. Here, you’ll find three species: Tridacna gigas (which can grow to around one metre in size), Tridacna derasa and Tridacna squamosa. The most common turtle you’ll see in Samoa is the green turtle, but critically endangered hawksbill and leatherback turtles also visit the reserve here.
Swimming with clams
To protect the colourful bivalves and their environment, only 10 people are allowed in the reserve at a time and sunscreen isn’t allowed. A local mans the small, covered waiting area next to the stairs that lead to the water. He charges 20 Samoan tala (approximately AUD$10) to swim with the clams, and an extra 5 tala (approximately AUD$2.60) to hire a snorkel mask and fins, although the selection is very limited and, honestly, needs a thorough clean; I’d recommend bringing your own. Slip into your swimmers in the basic but newly built changing rooms across the road, then leave any belongings at the waiting area.
This is an unpatrolled beach, and the marine reserve is about 100 metres from the stairs. For better visibility and to avoid damaging the clams, it’s best to visit during high tide when the water is deeper. While you can walk out part of the way, you’ll need to swim most of the distance. The sanctuary is roped off, and once you’re out there, the only way to catch your breath is by holding onto the rope and treading water.
With their luminous blue, green and tortoiseshell mantles, the clams are impressive but make sure you keep a safe distance from them. Aside from being a protected species, they snap their shells closed if anything comes near them; a protective instinct that keeps them safe from predators, and is fast and strong enough to cause injury. Once you’ve seen the clams, linger a little longer and you might be joined by one of the resident turtles. You can also rent a beach fale by the ocean, or swim in a freshwater spring.
How to get there
Upolo is one of Samoa’s two main islands. The Giant Clam Sanctuary is in the village of Savaia along Upolo’s south coast, which is about a 50-minute drive southwest of Apia, the capital city. You can rent a car and self-drive or book a tour through one of the resorts. Alternatively, Intrepid Travel offers two itineraries to Samoa, a 9-day Samoa Adventure (from AUD$4,360) and a 16-day Samoa & Fiji Adventure (from AUD$9,360). Both include a visit to the Giant Clam Sanctuary.
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