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How a cruise through the Med fulfilled a lifelong dream

Sailing the Med onboard Princess cruises’ newest ship offers a breadth of experience and an invitation to return.

If it is better to have loved and lost than not to have loved at all, surely it is better to have been than to not have been at all. This question is a constant when cruising the Mediterranean.

The harsh reality is that we will never be able to spend as much time as we would like in most of the places of the world, so all travel decisions are invariably a choice between depth and breadth.

Visiting two small slices of Italy onboard Princess Cruises’ newest ship, Sun Princess, I finally came to peace with this balancing act and appreciated the range that cruising gives travellers.

Exploring Taormina: A dream three decades in the making

From the age of 18, I have been on a quest to visit Taormina, Sicily. Like all life pursuits, it is my mum’s fault. Before I flew the nest on a gap year in 1991, she took some time to share a few of her favourite places in Europe and declared “Taormina is the most beautiful town in Sicily, if not Italy." She painted a seductive picture of a town wrapped in Phoenician, Roman and Arabic history set against the steep cliffs of the island’s east coast.

To see Taormina, for me, was to live up to the rich life she had lived, and to which I aspired, plus share a bond in appreciating this small piece of Italy. I didn’t make it in 1991. Nor did I get that far south when I lived in London from 2001 to 2003. But now, more than 30 years later, I can fulfil my familial quest.

the beautiful old town of Taormina, Italy
Corso Umberto in Taormina. (Image: Getty/DaLiu)

Sun Princess docks at Messina at 8am and, by 10am, the coach has traversed the scenic coastal highway and steep switchbacks to arrive at Taormina. Connecting the Porta Catania (the original gates to the old city) to the Teatro Antico (ancient theatre), the Corso Umberto is ‘medieval Europe’ from central casting. Iron balconies jut out over a cobbled lane where the stones have been polished to a sheen by thousands of years of foot traffic.

the snow-capped Mount Etna as seen from the ancient Greek theatre of Taormina, Italy
Explore the Teatro Antico. (Image: Getty/Christopher Moswitzer)

The balconies themselves are alternatively adorned with neat and orderly gardens and all-conquering rebellious flora. A third of the way along the Corso, Piazza IX Aprile offers breathtaking views of the coast. Just past the piazza, it is hard to spot Vicolo Stretto, the smallest laneway in Italy, just 50 centimetres wide.

The shopfronts along Corso Umberto are like Taormina itself: well-maintained. High-end fashion houses such as Louis Vuitton and Dior rub shoulders with more approachable, local designers as well as restaurants and the ubiquitous gelaterias.

The highlight of my four-hour wander is the ancient theatre. The seating has accommodated the behinds of Greeks, Phoenicians, Romans and even Saracens. And now mine. Reboarding Sun Princess, it is impossible for me not to plan to return to Taormina one day for an extended period. But whether I make it or not, at least I have been once.

a scenic view of the Taormina Beach
Soak up the sun on Sicily’s east coast. (Image: Getty/unknown1861)

From Naples to Ischia: Italy’s next big thing

the Sun Princess ship cruising in Italy
Cruise to Naples, Italy.

I disembark in Naples the following day and jump on a fast ferry to a destination many are picking as the next big thing – Ischia. Less known and developed than her most famous neighbour Capri, Ischia – the largest of the islands in the Bay of Naples – is close to bursting out of the shadows. Expect to see your Instagram flooded with Ischia posts in the coming 24 months.

the small beach village of Sant' Angelo on the island of Ischia in Italy
Ischia is an island to watch. (Image: Getty/todamo)

The Giardini Poseidon Terme (Poseidon’s Garden Spa) is a scenic 30-minute drive from the ferry. Lighthouses punctuate the cliff faces as we weave around headlands and sandy beaches.

Floating between 20 different pools, I spend a slow day taking to the water like a European and chatting to a couple from Geelong, who are enthralled by the entire cruise experience. Their first grand tour of Europe has been the perfect Euro sampler. Many of the destinations on the itinerary are, like Taormina for me, earmarked for a return and extended visit.

the pool view from Giardini Poseidon Terme, Sun Princess
The ship’s Wake View Terrace.

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Sun Princess highlights onboard and beyond

The Sun Princess cruise is a love affair with Italy. My favourite moments onboard are almost all Italian. The most outstanding meal is at Sabatini’s, the specialty Italian restaurant: the lobster tortellini is not to be missed. Sabatini’s is also the venue for another favourite moment, the Tapas Tuscan Wine Tasting.

Sure, tapas and Tuscan wine sound like a crime against wine-matching, however I would argue it is acceptable when the wines involved are the convention-busting Super Tuscans. Super Tuscans are a controversial and rebellious style of wine, mixing the traditional Tuscan sangiovese grapes with French varietals such as cabernet sauvignon, syrah and merlot. My love affair with Italy is to be continued.

the ceramic pattern detail
Swoon over the beauty of Sicilian ceramics. (Image: Quentin Long)

For more on Sun Princess, check out my comprehensive review here.

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Quentin Long
Quentin Long is the Co-Founder and Managing Director of Australian Traveller Media. Quentin is a sought-after travel media commentator. He is Australia’s most trusted source for travel news and insights, having held weekly radio segments across the country since 2006, and regularly appearing on Channel 9’s Today and A Current Affair programs from 2010. Don't ask him his favourite travel experience as that's like asking him to choose a favourite child. However he does say that Garma Festival is the one travel experience that changed him the most.
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5 things every hotel needs for a more restorative stay

    Kate Bettes Kate Bettes
    Wellbeing means different things to different travellers. Here’s how to pick a hotel that gets it right for you.

    The best wellness holidays aren’t necessarily spent wrapped in a spa robe. Sometimes they’re found around a dinner table in Cambodia, on a hiking trail in New Zealand or after finally beating jet lag on the other side of the world. The hotel you choose is what makes them happen.

    1. Easy access to good food

    meals from Novotel Bangkok Sukhumvit 20
    Taste delicious meals at Novotel Bangkok Sukhumvit 20.

    One of the quickest ways to derail healthy habits on holiday is to spend half of it working out where to eat instead of digging into the culture around you. Thankfully, Novotel has done much of the hard work already, with chefs building menus that lean into the flavours, ingredients and traditions of each destination.

    In Sihanoukville, Cambodia, Korkor soup – often dubbed ‘Cambodian ratatouille’ – sits alongside raw blue crab dressed with lime and chilli, best enjoyed with views across the Gulf of Thailand.

    In the lovingly chaotic city of Bangkok, the presence of food cranks up the sociability. At Novotel Bangkok Sukhumvit 20, you can settle in with mango sticky rice and stranger-turned-friends beside the pool at Sky on 20 rooftop bar, or bring them along to tackle river prawns and stir-fried crab with holy basil at the buzzing Crab Paradise Dinner Buffet.

    Then Novotel Dubai Al Barsha welcomes you with a laidback twist on the level of indulgence the Middle Eastern city is best known for up on Deck Se7en. Looking towards Burj Al Arab, the rooftop lounge has everything from Mediterranean-style dishes like seabass ceviche to Italian prosecco sundowners.

    At the other end of the scale, in the hills that surround the Novotel Bali Ubud Resort, calm comes from nature. At Siralada restaurant, Balinese traditions shape the menu while thunder rumbles over the surrounding jungle – proving the setting is as nourishing as the food itself.

    While at Novotel Nha Trang, chef Kieu Thi My Hanh and her team showcase Vietnam’s knack for balancing freshness, texture and fragrant herbs. Pho remains a favourite, while seafood salad with pomelo and mango brings those flavours together in one bright dish.

    It’s all an approach backed by partnerships with expert food creators such as Alfie Steiner, whose plant-forward recipes prove healthy food should never taste plain.

    2. Better sleep options

    Novotel Bali Ubud Resort room
    Sleep deeply with Novotel.

    There are few travel experiences more disappointing than arriving in a new country, determined to seize the day, only to fall asleep fully clothed by 3pm.

    For Australian travellers, jet lag is often an unavoidable part of the journey. That’s one reason Novotel runs sleep-focused initiatives that help guests adjust quickly without compromising on health. We’re talking partnerships with Sydney-based sleep specialist Olivia Arezzolo, known for her advice on everything from better sleep habits to beating jet lag, alongside features like pillow menus, in-room yoga content and tailored sleep guidance.

    The sooner you’re operating on local time, the sooner you can get back to more pressing matters – like deciding which spa treatment to book.

    3. More ways to move

    woman hiking around queenstown new zealand
    Stay at Novotel Queenstown Lakeside and explore local hiking trails. (Credit: GettyI mages/ naruedom)

    Every place in the world has its own way of getting you moving: whether that’s hiking up ice-bitten mountains before a sauna or gentle stretching by the pool before a facial. From fitness centres to spas, Novotel recognises that wellbeing rarely looks the same.

    At Novotel Queenstown Lakeside, activity is inescapable. Here, hiking trails, ski fields, bungee jumps, and white-water rafting have made the region famous. The hotel’s location on the shores of Lake Wakatipu means less time spent organising yourself and more time out there experiencing them. To top it all off, you can book a private hot tub for the evening before heading back into the wilderness tomorrow.

    Bali, of course, takes a softer approach. At Novotel Bali Ubud Resort or Novotel Bali Nusa Dua, movement is less about conquering a mountain and more about a dance class between the tropical gardens and lagoon pools. Afterwards, the spa takes over, with traditional treatments like a Lulur body scrub: a combination of rice, turmeric, sandalwood, ginger and jasmine that’ll soothe muscles already relaxed by the Balinese heat.

    4. Better connections

    Novotel Sharm El Sheikh
    Kids will love a stay at Novotel Sharm El Sheikh.

    One of the best things about travel is that it gives your family stories you’ll be telling for years. Novotel helps create them with activities that bring everyone together, whether that’s trying something new, learning a local skill, or simply spending more time together.

    Go for a distinctly Thai twist at Novotel Phuket Vintage Park, where many of the family activities draw on local culture. Kids can try everything from beginner Thai boxing and language lessons to umbrella painting and – a pastime beloved by children the world over – pool foam parties. Everyone is welcome to join in, whether that’s getting splashed, covered in paint, or simply watching their children discover a new side of Thailand during the dedicated Family & Kids Day.

    A different adventure awaits at Novotel Sharm El Sheikh. Kids could be perfectly content with discos, drawing classes and new holiday friends, but the Red Sea has other ideas. Sitting on the edge of Naama Bay, days here might involve snorkelling colourful reefs, taking a boat trip to Ras Mohammed National Park or heading into the desert by quad bike or camel for a Bedouin-style dinner beneath the stars.

    5. Location is everything

    Surin Beach, Choeng Thale, Thalang District, Phuket, Thaiföld
    Explore Phuket’s gorgeous beaches. (Credit: Bence Biczo)

    Everyone’s idea of wellness looks a little different. With more than 600 hotels across 65 countries, Novotel gives guests the freedom to choose the destination that suits them best. Whether that’s a beachside escape in Phuket, an alpine expedition in Queenstown or a city break in Bangkok, there’s a good chance a Novotel isn’t far away.

    All that’s left? Choosing your version of wellbeing.

    Discover stays to inspire your everyday at novotel.accor.com.