Green mountains covered in mist, ivy-covered stone walls, cliffs and brisk ocean breeze – this is not the Spain you know.

North of Spain’s famous, sunny Mediterranean coast lies a wilder side of the country: a landscape of mist-covered mountains, dramatic Atlantic cliffs, and fishing villages shaped by centuries of life at sea. From Galicia’s rugged shores to the surf beaches of the Basque Country, Spain’s Northern Coast offers a slower, more untamed kind of escape—where scenic drives, coastal hikes, and unforgettable stays reveal a region that still feels wonderfully undiscovered.

Galicia: A land shaped by the sea

Begin your exploration in the northwest corner of the Iberian Peninsula, in the rugged autonomous community of Galicia. Combarro is the perfect example of the region’s idyllic fishing villages. Winding alleys waft the scent of the sea from nearly every direction, along with the region’s quintessential hórreos, traditional, cross-topped raised granaries designed to keep rodents out of food supplies.

The village is particularly intertwined with local mythology of meigas (Galician witches), most likely stemming from the women who were able to gain more power and independence in the governance of local town life whilst their fishermen husbands spent so much time at sea.

Anchor yourself in Galicia’s natural beauty with a stay at Pepe Vieira; its minimal, glass-cube galpones are designed to integrate the hospitality experience with the lush surrounding greenery and stunning views of the Rías Baixas.

Even in the two-Michelin-starred, on-site restaurant, the dining room looks out over a patch of uncultivated land, sprouting wildflowers, tall grass, or whatever nature wants to show off in that particular season. The heart here is to invite nature in.

The surrounding area is full of hikes and beaches. Head up to Castrove lookout point to spot wild horses, enjoy the views, and perhaps stretch your legs on the trails.

When you’re ready to head further north, set your sights on Valdoviño to see Ermida Virxe do Porto, a hauntingly beautiful chapel perched high on the windswept cliffs of the Atlantic. Nearby, Praia Da Cristina is just one example of the stunning beaches that line the entire coast.

Asturias: Spain’s Costa Verde

Heading east along the coast, cross over into the neighbouring region of Asturias, and stop for lunch in Luarca, another fishing village oozing history and charm.

Playa del Silencio is just one of the many scenic spots you’ll pass on your drive along the coast, but make sure to put it at the top of your list. Looking out over the crystalline water, the architectural arches and cathedrals of stone emerging from it, and the lush greenery, my husband and I were reminded distinctly of California’s Big Sur – but without the crowds.

Your home base in Asturias is El Gran Sueño, a bucolic bed and breakfast tucked away among Asturias’ signature rolling green hills and rugged mountains. This stay feels like a time capsule from a lost era where hospitality is full of warmth and soul. Founded 12 years ago, the fingerprints of hosts Dave and Javier are on every part of the experience, from cooking your meals to cleaning the rooms.

Their passion comes through on every level of the experience, from Javier’s local insights and recommendations to enjoy the surrounding region to Dave’s delicious, home-cooked dinners made with local produce and seafood.

Waking up as the mist rolls in over the fields from the surrounding mountains, with only birdsong and cowbells to break the countryside silence, this is a place where life slows down. Enjoy nature with the many trails and scenic drives adjacent to the property and a short driving distance in the surrounding region.

Cantabria: A fairy tale hideaway

After the hikes and scenic drives along the coasts and mountains of Galicia and Asturias, work your way further east into Cantabria, and settle in for a night or two at Helguera Palacio Boutique & Antique, if you want a getaway so magical that you won’t want to leave the grounds.

If you’re like me, you’ll feel like you’ve stumbled into a scene from Beauty and the Beast as you wander past the crumbly moss-covered walls of this 17th-century palace, up the grand staircase, and past the drawing room full of characterful antiques to one of the property’s 11 guest rooms.

In warmer months, the pool invites you to wile the days away taking in the rolling countryside view of sheep herds grazing in the Pasiegos Valleys. In the more typical cold and misty months, the spa’s heated pool offers an equally stunning view, and a cozy fireplace and wood sauna to warm your bones.

Basque Country: The coast beyond the pintxos

As you pass into Basque Country (Euskadi in Basque), San Sebastian and Bilbao are definitely the buzziest stops on the Northern Coast. No one could claim the Basque Coast is a hidden gem. However, I do think the spotlight is so solidly fixed on the likes of the pintxos and bar-hopping scene in San Sebastian and the Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao that some forget about the beautiful nature right at its doorstep. Walkable from the Gros neighbourhood in San Sebastian, the Mount Ulia hike boasts views that can compete with Hawaii’s Na Pali coast, yet hardly a soul on the trail with you.

The Basque coast also catches consistent swells rolling into the Bay of Biscay. Zurriola Beach in San Sebastián is the hot spot for surfing in town, while in the nearby town of Zarautz, a 2.5-kilometre sandy beach has multiple breaks for surfers of every level.

If you’re not a surfer, there is still plenty to experience outdoors in Basque Country, such as Flysch de Zumia, with its hiking and otherworldly rock formations. Gaztelugatxeko Doniene, famously a filming location in Game of Thrones, is an island connected to the shore by a stone bridge, which transitions to a zigzagging series of steps leading to a chapel at the summit.