Futuristic yet traditional, where neon-signed skyscrapers abut ancient temples and verdant parks, the Japanese capital is one of the world’s most endlessly fascinating cities.

Many cruise lines port in Tokyo Bay, which is actually in Yokohama, an hour’s drive from the centre of Tokyo. The good news is you can get there via shinkansen (bullet train) in 18 minutes. Oceania Cruises’ 12-day Land of the Rising Sun voyage onboard Riviera departs Tokyo (Yokohama) and visits Shimizu, Kyoto (Kobe), Beppu, Busan in South Korea, then back to Japan to Nagasaki, Kagoshima, Hiroshima, Kochi, Nagoya and returns to Tokyo.

Meanwhile, Princess Cruises has a tantalising 10-day Hokkaido round-trip from Tokyo, stopping at incredibly scenic destinations such as Kagoshima, Otaru, Kushiro and Hakodate. A highlight is the opportunity to visit an onsen on the island of Hokkaido.

Tokyo highlights

Meiji-jingū shrine

Of course, you’ll want to see the Meiji-jingū in Yoyogi Park (go on a Sunday to see the rockabilly dancers in the south-eastern corner). And you’re going to want to witness the spectacle that is Shibuya Crossing where hundreds of people surge out and fill Hachiko Square, walking in all directions.

Just beyond the crossing is more exciting. There are small alleyways full of uncrowded hole-in-the-wall restaurants and izakaya (pubs selling small plates of bar food with beer). Hunt down JBS Bar (JBS stands for jazz, blues and soul) where owner Kobayashi-san spins his favourites from an 11,000-strong collection of vinyl records while pouring whisky and beer.

teamLab Planets Tokyo

Can’t get to Japan for cherry blossom season? No worries. Cherry blossoms are always in bloom at immersive museum teamLab Planets Tokyo in Toyosu. Wander through this space where flowers bud and fall with every passing minute. Visitors walk barefoot through real water, as a moving projection of koi swim across the infinite surface of the water. Book ahead.

Toyosu Senkyaku Banrai complex

The just-opened Toyosu Senkyaku Banrai complex includes a collection of restaurants that take full advantage of fresh ingredients from the neighbouring Toyosu Market, home to one of the largest fish markets in the world. Also on site is a hot spring spa with open-air baths overlooking Tokyo Bay and a 360-degree panoramic view of central Tokyo. And it’s open 24 hours.

Where to eat and drink in Tokyo

Attention to detail means you can step into almost any restaurant and know the food will be delicious – and affordable as well. In fact, you can dine at Michelin-starred restaurants for less than $20. There are 203 Michelin-starred eateries in Tokyo alone as well as many Bib Gourmand status eateries renowned for their ‘exceptionally good food at moderate prices’.

Sushi Sei Honten

Head to Sushi Sei Honten in Tsukiji for fresh and inexpensive sushi. And to Shinjuku’s Memory Lane, a quiet passageway lit up with red Japanese lanterns, for yakitori. Some of the best food in Japan can even be found at train stations.

Maruchika

The Marunouchi Building’s underground food zone Maruchika, near Tokyo Station, has just been renovated. If in a rush, get your bento box here before boarding.

Tokyo accommodation

Alfit Hotel

Alfit Hotel & Bar Akasaka opened in Tokyo’s central Akasaka area in November last year. The rooms, varying in size from 14.5 to 45 square metres, are affordable, starting from $110.

Imperial Hotel

Architecture lovers should book a room at the Imperial Hotel where there’s an incredible bar with works by architect Frank Lloyd Wright. Sadly, his building on this site was demolished in the 1960s.

Janu

Janu a new arm of the Aman hotel group, has opened in the modern urban village of Azabudai Hills. There are 122 light-filled rooms and suites, eight dining venues, two boutiques and a 4000-square-metre Wellness Centre, which includes a boxing ring.