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4 ways to discover the secret summer life of Japan’s northern wilderness

Credit: Getty Images/ Wirestock

Hokkaido is Japan’s under-explored summer destination. But when the snow melts, the island’s lush, green landscapes set the scene for incredible wildlife encounters.

Hokkaido is Japan’s northernmost main island, famed for its skiing and winter sports. But there’s an under-explored side to this winter wonderland: during the warmer months, the snow melts away to reveal verdant landscapes of mountains, farmland and pristine coast. Hokkaido’s green season (late April to early November) brings mild temperatures, perfect for outdoor activities like hiking, rafting – and best of all, spotting the island’s incredible wildlife. Separated from the rest of Japan by the Tsugaru Strait, Hokkaido boasts a unique mix of flora and fauna. Here, you can find brown bears, foxes, deer, rare birds and more.

What’s more, Hokkaido in summer brings fresh seafood, outdoor barbecues and sweet seasonal produce. Alongside the region’s unique cultural mix of Indigenous Ainu heritage, prehistoric Jomon traditions and so much more

Discover four wildlife experiences you don’t want to miss.

1. Whale Watching Tour, Rausu

Sperm Whale tail
Spot sperm whales when they surface. (Credit: Ray Harrington)

I’m on a boat, zooming along the Nemuro Strait. From the starboard side, I watch as pods of porpoises shoot out of the water and plunge back down. The captain kills the engine. It’s sperm whale season, and the crew know there’s one swimming close by – they’re listening out attentively for signs through a hydrophone.

Sperm whales can stay underwater for between 60 and 90 minutes. But what goes down must eventually come up. The crew signal they’ve picked up something, and the engine roars back to life. We make a beeline for the horizon, where a mighty sperm whale has surfaced, blowing tufts of mist into the air. We watch the creature linger for a few magical minutes before it dives back down, flashing its tail like a giant fan.

The Nemuro Strait, just off the Shiretoko Peninsula, is a thoroughfare for sperm whales, orcas, minke whales, beaked whales and lots more marine life. Tours leave from the fishing village of Rausu, a pleasant town to return to for lunch after a morning spent whale-watching on the water.

2. Guided hike, Shiretoko Goko Lakes

Ezo brown bear on Shiretoko Peninsula, eastern Hokkaido
Join an expert guide to spot brown bears (from a safe distance). (Credit: Getty Images/ Shiroki Kusakawa)

Japan is home to around 12,000 Ezo brown bears, all of which live on the island of Hokkaido. Many inhabit the Shiretoko Peninsula, home of a UNESCO-listed national park renowned for its natural beauty. Exploring brown bear habitat is best done with an experienced guide, so I’m hiking Shiretoko Goko Lakes with Ayako Terada, who has been guiding for more than 20 years. For Ayako, bears inspire reverence rather than fear.

“Bears don’t take a lot – they take just what they need," she tells me as we hike through a stand of fir trees. We pause to rub the leaves and inhale the fresh, citrusy scent they release.

Today, the brown bears are elusive. But Ayako points out claw marks on the tree trunks, a reminder of their presence. Our hiking route takes us around five marvellous lakes, each one so calm and clear, they act like giant mirrors reflecting the mountain ranges around them. Sometimes, bears can be seen swimming here.

Visitors can take guided hiking tours at Shiretoko Goko Lakes. Alternatively, guided boat cruises from Utoro or Rausu give visitors the opportunity to spot bears foraging along the shore.

3. Nighttime wilderness safari, Shiretoko

Shiretoko National Park, located on the Shiretoko Peninsula in eastern Hokkaido
Look for foxes and deer on a safari in Shiretoko. (Credit: Getty Images/ Azuki25)

We’ve barely left the parking lot on our wildlife night drive through Shiretoko when our guide pumps the brakes and points out a fox padding down the road.

“This is a cross fox," he explains – a rare colour mutation that mottles the fox’s distinctive red fur with black. The sighting sets the tone for the rest of the tour as we drive down a forest road, flashlights at the ready.

We’re instructed to look for the glow of eyes in the trees as they come into line with our lights. We spot elegant Ezo deer along the riverbanks, and a few more foxes. Although we don’t see it, we also hear the call of a Blakiston’s fish owl. The world’s largest living owl, this rare bird is native to Hokkaido.

After a successful wildlife drive, the tour concludes with a stargazing session — the constellations brilliant, bright and highly visible in this quiet corner of the island.

Visitors can take a wildlife night safari with Picchio Wildlife Research Centre, where you’ll look out for deer, foxes, birds and brown bears from inside a vehicle.

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4. Crane sanctuary, Tsurui

three red-crowned cranes flapping their wings in Kushiro national park
See majestic cranes. (Credit: Getty Images/ Wirestock)

The crane is a national symbol of good luck and peace in Japan. If you’re lucky, you might spy these elegant birds striding about the Kushiro Marshlands in Eastern Hokkaido. But if you don’t want to leave a sighting to chance, pay a visit to the Tsurui-Itō Tanchō Crane Sanctuary, dedicated to the red-crowned cranes.

These regal birds are among the rarest species of crane in the world. The sanctuary was first established by a local farmer dedicated to their preservation, and is now run by the Wild Bird Society of Japan. When I visit, the cranes are standing calmly in a field. They’re much larger than I imagined – an adult is around five feet tall. And when I see one stretch its two-metre-plus wingspan, I get a sense of just how much is wrapped up in their elegant silhouettes.

Find out more about visiting Hokkaido during green season at visit-hokkaido.jp/en.

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Elizabeth Whitehead
Elizabeth Whitehead is a writer obsessed with all things culture; doesn't matter if it's pop culture or cultures of the world. She graduated with a degree in History from the University of Sydney (after dropping out from Maths). Her bylines span AFAR, Lonely Planet, ELLE, Harper's BAZAAR and Refinery 29. Her work for International Traveller was shortlisted for single article of the year at the Mumbrella Publishing Awards 2024. She is very lucky in thrifting, very unlucky in UNO.
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5 things every hotel needs for a more restorative stay

    Kate Bettes Kate Bettes
    Wellbeing means different things to different travellers. Here’s how to pick a hotel that gets it right for you.

    The best wellness holidays aren’t necessarily spent wrapped in a spa robe. Sometimes they’re found around a dinner table in Cambodia, on a hiking trail in New Zealand or after finally beating jet lag on the other side of the world. The hotel you choose is what makes them happen.

    1. Easy access to good food

    meals from Novotel Bangkok Sukhumvit 20
    Taste delicious meals at Novotel Bangkok Sukhumvit 20.

    One of the quickest ways to derail healthy habits on holiday is to spend half of it working out where to eat instead of digging into the culture around you. Thankfully, Novotel has done much of the hard work already, with chefs building menus that lean into the flavours, ingredients and traditions of each destination.

    In Sihanoukville, Cambodia, Korkor soup – often dubbed ‘Cambodian ratatouille’ – sits alongside raw blue crab dressed with lime and chilli, best enjoyed with views across the Gulf of Thailand.

    In the lovingly chaotic city of Bangkok, the presence of food cranks up the sociability. At Novotel Bangkok Sukhumvit 20, you can settle in with mango sticky rice and stranger-turned-friends beside the pool at Sky on 20 rooftop bar, or bring them along to tackle river prawns and stir-fried crab with holy basil at the buzzing Crab Paradise Dinner Buffet.

    Then Novotel Dubai Al Barsha welcomes you with a laidback twist on the level of indulgence the Middle Eastern city is best known for up on Deck Se7en. Looking towards Burj Al Arab, the rooftop lounge has everything from Mediterranean-style dishes like seabass ceviche to Italian prosecco sundowners.

    At the other end of the scale, in the hills that surround the Novotel Bali Ubud Resort, calm comes from nature. At Siralada restaurant, Balinese traditions shape the menu while thunder rumbles over the surrounding jungle – proving the setting is as nourishing as the food itself.

    While at Novotel Nha Trang, chef Kieu Thi My Hanh and her team showcase Vietnam’s knack for balancing freshness, texture and fragrant herbs. Pho remains a favourite, while seafood salad with pomelo and mango brings those flavours together in one bright dish.

    It’s all an approach backed by partnerships with expert food creators such as Alfie Steiner, whose plant-forward recipes prove healthy food should never taste plain.

    2. Better sleep options

    Novotel Bali Ubud Resort room
    Sleep deeply with Novotel.

    There are few travel experiences more disappointing than arriving in a new country, determined to seize the day, only to fall asleep fully clothed by 3pm.

    For Australian travellers, jet lag is often an unavoidable part of the journey. That’s one reason Novotel runs sleep-focused initiatives that help guests adjust quickly without compromising on health. We’re talking partnerships with Sydney-based sleep specialist Olivia Arezzolo, known for her advice on everything from better sleep habits to beating jet lag, alongside features like pillow menus, in-room yoga content and tailored sleep guidance.

    The sooner you’re operating on local time, the sooner you can get back to more pressing matters – like deciding which spa treatment to book.

    3. More ways to move

    woman hiking around queenstown new zealand
    Stay at Novotel Queenstown Lakeside and explore local hiking trails. (Credit: GettyI mages/ naruedom)

    Every place in the world has its own way of getting you moving: whether that’s hiking up ice-bitten mountains before a sauna or gentle stretching by the pool before a facial. From fitness centres to spas, Novotel recognises that wellbeing rarely looks the same.

    At Novotel Queenstown Lakeside, activity is inescapable. Here, hiking trails, ski fields, bungee jumps, and white-water rafting have made the region famous. The hotel’s location on the shores of Lake Wakatipu means less time spent organising yourself and more time out there experiencing them. To top it all off, you can book a private hot tub for the evening before heading back into the wilderness tomorrow.

    Bali, of course, takes a softer approach. At Novotel Bali Ubud Resort or Novotel Bali Nusa Dua, movement is less about conquering a mountain and more about a dance class between the tropical gardens and lagoon pools. Afterwards, the spa takes over, with traditional treatments like a Lulur body scrub: a combination of rice, turmeric, sandalwood, ginger and jasmine that’ll soothe muscles already relaxed by the Balinese heat.

    4. Better connections

    Novotel Sharm El Sheikh
    Kids will love a stay at Novotel Sharm El Sheikh.

    One of the best things about travel is that it gives your family stories you’ll be telling for years. Novotel helps create them with activities that bring everyone together, whether that’s trying something new, learning a local skill, or simply spending more time together.

    Go for a distinctly Thai twist at Novotel Phuket Vintage Park, where many of the family activities draw on local culture. Kids can try everything from beginner Thai boxing and language lessons to umbrella painting and – a pastime beloved by children the world over – pool foam parties. Everyone is welcome to join in, whether that’s getting splashed, covered in paint, or simply watching their children discover a new side of Thailand during the dedicated Family & Kids Day.

    A different adventure awaits at Novotel Sharm El Sheikh. Kids could be perfectly content with discos, drawing classes and new holiday friends, but the Red Sea has other ideas. Sitting on the edge of Naama Bay, days here might involve snorkelling colourful reefs, taking a boat trip to Ras Mohammed National Park or heading into the desert by quad bike or camel for a Bedouin-style dinner beneath the stars.

    5. Location is everything

    Surin Beach, Choeng Thale, Thalang District, Phuket, Thaiföld
    Explore Phuket’s gorgeous beaches. (Credit: Bence Biczo)

    Everyone’s idea of wellness looks a little different. With more than 600 hotels across 65 countries, Novotel gives guests the freedom to choose the destination that suits them best. Whether that’s a beachside escape in Phuket, an alpine expedition in Queenstown or a city break in Bangkok, there’s a good chance a Novotel isn’t far away.

    All that’s left? Choosing your version of wellbeing.

    Discover stays to inspire your everyday at novotel.accor.com.

    Part of Quiet beauty and unexpected adventure awaits in Japan