HX Expeditions: What it’s really like to cruise the remote Northwest Passage

Greenland, Arctic Canada and Alaska on one expedition? HX Expeditions MS Fridtjof Nansen calmly cruises where polar bears tread and where only small towns of Inuit dare to live.

If you’re going to navigate what the world once thought unnavigable, the Northwest Passage, from Greenland to Alaska via the iceberg-riddled ‘Labyrinth’ of the Canadian High Arctic, HX Expeditions’ (HX) polar class MS Fridtjof Nansen is an option to consider.

What makes HX Expeditions cruises different from other Arctic expeditions?

Sail through the breathtaking Northwest Passage onboard Ms Fridtjof Nansen.

For some, Arctic cruising is an A-to-B conquest, with a few polar bear and narwhal sightings thrown in. Just like the European explorers before them – who eventually ‘conquered’ the Northwest Passage, sailing from the Atlantic to Pacific oceans – there was scant connection with the people and place of the lands through which they sailed. 

On MS Fridtjof Nansen, the HX cultural ambassadors, hailing from both our Greenland and Canadian stopovers, sail alongside us, helping to enlighten passengers about their complex culture and putting a ‘name to the place’ before we arrive in the communities. 

Unforgettable cultural experiences await.

I chat with Ikey Kogvek from Gjoa Haven, Canada, who works in the community’s greenhouse (made from shipping containers) providing fresh fruits and vegetables to the 1300 people, even in the sunless winter months. He shares his love for volleyball, his fears about the future of his native language, Inuktitut, and he articulates the Inuit people’s deeply held philosophy: “If you respect the land, the land will respect you back”. 

Aleq Peary, a traditional hunter from Qaanaaq, northern Greenland, knows visitors struggle with the idea of hunting narwals, seals and polar bears. He explains why, for example, it’s important that his 15-year-old has learned to hunt from a kayak, the old way, the way ancestors preferred. Inuits respect the animals, he says, use the meat for essential nutrition, and the skins as insulation against the minus-40-degree winters. I learn all these things before I even take a single step ashore.

What are the suites and cabins like on MS Fridtjof Nansen?

The luxurious Expedition Suite. (Image: Tuan Lam)

No surprises that a 26-day Arctic cruise is no budget affair with prices for this Greenland to Alaska cruise starting at $37,094pp for a Polar Outside (no balcony) and peaking at $52,105pp for an Expedition Suite. I’m blessed to be upgraded to the latter. 

I settle easily into Suite Fridtjof Nansen – a herculean space by cruise-ship standards (as it should be for the price), with a fantastic aspect straight over the bow, one deck below the captain’s deck. The decor and design unmistakably reflect HX’s Norwegian heritage – a refined Scandi party, minimalist and functional to a fault, semi-modular, rendered in a light, sometimes woody palette. 

The luxurious Expedition Suite comes with a hot tub. (Image: Tuan Lam)

My bath could comfortably fit two people, the double shower probably three (and the Arctic Pure amenities are blissful). This is subtle luxury, aiming to spoil rather than dazzle. I arrive to a complimentary platter and bottle of Francois Dubois champagne (plus an HX Expeditions waterproof jacket and Ocean [water] Bottle). 

When the weather’s fine, I whale and ice watch from the private balcony. When it’s not, I grab a bottle from the wine wall, turn on the faux-fire place and melt into a chaise lounge. Prices for the almost-as-well-appointed Arctic Superior cabins, the middle accommodation option, start at $40,607pp, all on upper decks with private balconies.

What shore excursions are available on MS Fridtjof Nansen?

Experience life-affirming shore excursions in Canada.

As you might imagine, cruising from Greenland to Alaska lends itself to some life-affirming (perhaps life-changing to some) shore excursions and activities. MS Fridtjof Nansen departs from Greenland’s capital, Nuuk, itself worth a couple of days’ exploring (check out the Greenland National Museum and Archives). 

Prepare yourself, it’s an expensive city to stay, eat and shop. The cruise spends three more nights along Greenland’s west coast, including daytrips to Sisimiut and ‘ice capital’ Ilulissat, with various options to take in culture and nature (I recommend hiking in Sisimiut to stretch the legs and refresh the soul).

After two ‘sea days’ across mighty Baffin Bay, you’ll stop at three Inuit communities in the Canadian Arctic: Pond Inlet, Gjoa Haven and Cambridge Bay (within the Northwest Passage itself). Rolling sea days follow as the ship heads to Alaska via the Beaufort Sea (stopping at Nome). Local guides lead you on community visits and you can play bingo and chat with town elders, watch joyful cultural performances and learn local customs. 

The cruise spends three more nights along Greenland’s west coast. (Image: Geraldine Prince)

Nature-wise, there are plenty of opportunities to get ‘out there’ – whether zodiac-ing (as close as guidelines regulations allow) to glaciers like Evighedsfjord/‘Fjord of Eternity’ to exploring and hiking the Northwest Passage’s remote shorelines – when weather allows. You are at the whims of Mother Nature, of course, but the opportunities to see sea creatures, birds and land mammals are epic (be patient). I saw four polar bears (from a fair distance), no narwhals, but plenty of whales, seals and birds. Bring your binoculars and telephoto lenses because the ship won’t approach too close to bears, for example, as per protocol. 

Arctic explorer history buffs will be sated, with relevant lectures and stop-offs at sites like Beechey Island, home to four headstones commemorating members of the failed Franklin Northwest Passage expedition. My favourite excursions? A morning sea-kayaking through icebergs ($220pp), a guided tour of remote Nipisat Island ($334pp) and the joy-flight over the Northern Glacier from Ilulissat ($543pp).

What are the dining options, facilities and entertainment like on MS Fridtjof Nansen?

Freidheim restaurant is a casual eatery serving burgers, hotdogs and waffles. (Image: Clara Tuma)

My first wander around MS Fridtjof Nansen’s decks illustrates the gulf in scale, design and atmosphere between expedition vessels like this and mega cruiseships that plough the tropics. On my sailing there are 310 passengers and 160 staff, with no children onboard (that I saw) even though they’re technically allowed (children under five aren’t allowed on HX’s Antarctica route).

With the focus on the outside, you won’t find casinos, waterslides or cabaret shows, although there’s small-scale activity that reflects the demands of the mostly older passengers, a mix of Europeans, Australians and North Americans, including a crew band night. Most of my non-cabin time is on deck – there are two hot tubs and an infinity pool at the rear – or nerding out in the science centre. 

Aune restaurant features expansive views.

All three ocean-facing restaurants serve international fusion menus with a Scandinavian bent, headed by German exec chef Felix Kunze. The casual Fredheim is “a little bit more street food,” he says, serving burgers, hotdogs and waffles. “We have a Norway flag on the back which is why we have Norwegian products and touch of Norway – the waffles, brown cheese, cloud berries.” 

Enjoy elevated plates at Lindstrom. (Image: Tuan Lam)

A la carte Lindstrom – for suite guests or a specialty choice – brings “a touch of fine dining with more personal service, a little less bustling than say the Aune”, the main restaurant [where buffet breakfasts are served]. 

Pamper options include a stunning sauna, with panoramic windows and the Wellness Centre (can recommend the HX’s signature treatment; which sent me into a deep sleep (book ahead, the spa gets busy on sea days). 

Savour masterful tipples in The Explorer Lounge & Bar. (Image: Tuan Lam)

The Explorer Lounge & Bar, comprising a large part of Deck 10 (of 11), is a social chameleon. Daybeds in the front. Lounges aplenty. Wall-to-wall windows. Piano man in the PM. There are snacks of great character (dry pollock and Greenlandic beer made from glacial water were memorable) and a sophisticatedly stocked bar (standard drinks and classic cocktails are included). Feel like splashing out? A bottle of Châteauneuf-du-Pape ($320) or a belt of HX’s Navigator Whisky, a single malt that travelled pole-to-pole for ($90). On one magical afternoon in the Explorer, I saw a Muskox, vivid sunshine and a snow flurry without leaving my seat.

 What is HX Expeditions’ sustainability and environmental impact?

The words “Hybrid Powered” are painted on the ship’s flank. (Image: Geraldine Prince)

The phrase “Hybrid Powered”, in bold lettering on the flank of the sleek MS Fridtjof Nansen, is a strong statement in the cruising industry, one which is not always known for its eco-friendliness. HX claims that the ship’s propulsion system, “powered by a combination of battery packs and shore power connection … cuts fuel consumption and CO2 emissions by up to 20 per cent”. 

The aim is to reduce emissions “ahead of the requirements of the Paris Agreement.” Other sustainability-focused programs include a progressive waste-minimisation plan but, for me, HX’s forward-thinking onboard science program is equally as important. These are real scientists performing real ecology and climate research. I pull on my citizen-science beanie and jump into the ‘science boat’ (zodiac) with environmental scientist Dominic Barrington. We gather samples of ocean water around the icebergs near Disko Bay, sent to a lab in the US to help monitor the effects of a warming world on icebergs’ ecosystem. 

I spend time animal spotting on deck with ocean conservationist Daniela Tamayo, who’s gathering data on whales, seals and dolphins in the “much understudied Northwest Passage”. She shows me how to be more than a passive sightseer, introducing the likes of iNaturalist and Happywhale where I can digitally log my sightings.

Details

The cosy Arctic Superior cabin. (Image: Clara Tuma)

Pricing

Price for the 26-day ‘Northwest Passage – Through the Arctic Labyrinth (Greenland to Alaska)’ cruise start $37,094pp for Polar Outside cabin. Expedition Suites (featured) start at $52,105pp. Prices include most meals, drinks, water-resistant jacket and water bottle. There are two cruises per (short) season (end of northern summer).

Flights

Air Canada flies to Reykjavik, Iceland (with two stops: Vancouver, Toronto). Icelandair then flies from Reykjavik to Nuuk, Greenland. Cruise includes final-leg flights from HX’s major gateway airports: Copenhagen or Reykjavik, for example. 

Visas
Australians don’t require a visa for Greenland (up to 90 days), but will need an ESTA to enter the USA (Alaska).