It’s not every day you get to see the northern lights. Unless you’re on a Hurtigruten cruise, that is.

I board MS Trollfjord in the city of Tromsø, 350 kilometres above the Arctic Circle in Norway. I’ve just flown for more than 24 hours, practically crossing from pole to pole, to embark on an aurora-chasing expedition along the second longest coastline in the world.

Travelling from Tromsø to Oslo via Honningsvåg, I’m not only embarking on my first-ever cruise, but I’m joining Hurtigruten’s inaugural Astronomy Voyage on Signature sailing. And for a number of reasons, expectations are high.

As Hurtigruten’s flagship Signature vessel, MS Trollfjord isn’t your typical cruise ship. Guest numbers are capped at just 500 passengers, and with three onboard restaurants, a two-floor panoramic lounge, cocktail bar, sauna, fitness room, lecture hall and impressive array of cabins and suites, it’s less floating hotel and more sanctuary at sea.

Adding to the anticipation is Hurtigruten’s unique Northern Lights Promise. Established in 2014, it declares that if the aurora fails to appear within sight of your ship during an 11-day voyage in auroral season, you’re invited back on the company’s dime.

It appears Mother Nature is on my side, too. At the time of sailing, the solar maximum is at its peak, signifying the most active period of the sun’s 11-year cycle. During the time, intense solar flares and coronal mass ejections create the perfect conditions for some of the most vivid auroral displays in the world.

Over the next nine days, my expectations are well and truly blown out of the water. Not just of the aurora, but by the effortless way Hurtigruten makes the journey just as memorable as the destination.

At a glance

• Onboard MS Trollfjord, I sailed on the inaugural Astronomy Voyage on Signature itinerary. Designed as a 15-day round trip from Oslo, it travels along Hurtigruten’s North Cape Line. I boarded on day seven in Tromsø, which marks the halfway point of the North Cape Line and the beginning of its southbound itinerary.
• Hurtigruten offers two Voyage types: Original and Signature. Its Signature Voyages are premium, all-inclusive experiences that come with extended port hours, upgraded dining access to all three restaurants, beverage packages and in-depth onboard activity programs.
• The new small-group Astronomy Voyage on Signature combines this premium experience with eight lectures and two masterclasses delivered onboard by professional astronomer and Hurtigruten’s Chief Aurora Chaser, Tom Kerss. Exclusive to Astronomy Voyage on Signature guests, the series delves into the science behind the aurora borealis, as well as guided experiences with Tom on the ship’s deck at night.

Who is this cruise best for?

Intrepid explorers and lifelong learners will love the Astronomy Voyage on Signature sailing onboard MS Trollfjord. The bespoke journey caters to both beginners and experts, attracting amateur astronomers and seasoned scientists alike.

While the eight onboard lectures touch on everything from excitation and emissions to solar flares and electromagnetic fields, you don’t need a degree in science to attend.

With an extensive background in astrophysics and spacecraft engineering, Tom has a knack for transforming complex astrophysical data into bite-sized chunks of information that make it easy to understand.

While Hurtigruten welcomes guests of all ages aboard its ships and itineraries, some are more suited to families than others. Specifically, the Astronomy Voyage on Signature itinerary is more geared towards adults; there is no dedicated kids club or youth program on these specialty sailings.

Cabins and suites

With no single continuous route connecting Norway’s principal ports, Hurtigruten was established in the 19th century to provide a maritime link along the coastline. While it has since evolved into a premium cruise company, Norwegians working in or travelling to the country’s more isolated cities still rely on its services today.

On Original sailings, guests share the ship with these commuters, who do not need to book a cabin if onboard for less than 24 hours. As the first vessel in Hurtigruten’s Signature fleet, MS Trollfjord is exclusive only to overnight guests and does not allow port-to-port travel, making for a more refined and intimate onboard experience.

There are 270 cabins, including 21 suites, onboard MS Trollfjord. A range of configurations cater to different traveller types, from standard twin rooms on the lower deck to grand suites on the upper deck. I was in a spacious Arctic Superior cabin on deck four, which acted as a comfortable and cosy home-away-from-home throughout my time onboard.

Conveniently located just down the hall from reception, it features a double bed, minibar with tea and coffee facilities, wall-mounted flat-screen TV, work desk and double wardrobe, as well as a separate en suite bathroom with shower. Perhaps my favourite feature of the room, a large window that provides uninterrupted views of the ever-changing landscape outside, and even a glimpse of the aurora come evening.

Dining and bars

MS Trollfjord is home to three restaurants, each showcasing Norway’s diverse gastronomy and rich bounty of flavours. Found on deck five, Flora is the ship’s main restaurant. Open daily for all guests, it operates as an all-you-can-eat buffet over breakfast and lunch before transitioning to an à la carte menu for dinner.

Mornings are characterised by everything from cereal and pastries to fresh fruit and hot options like eggs, bacon and sausages. Lunch comes in a similarly generous spread, including salad, pasta, roast meat, vegetables, charcuterie and more. The dinner menu changes to reflect each day’s port stop, so no two meals are ever the same.

Also on deck five is Brasserie Árran, which is open for lunch and dinner. Taking a more refined approach, it specialises in traditional Norwegian cuisine with a modern twist. The restaurant’s signature offering is its dry-aged menu, which comes at an extra cost and features premium cuts and fish, such as tomahawk steak, rib-eye and halibut.

Up on deck eight, Røst is MS Trollfjord’s fine dining restaurant. Open for breakfast, lunch, afternoon tea and dinner, its three-to-five course menu rotates throughout the voyage, centred around 16 seasonal dishes. While suite guests receive complimentary access, cabin guests can pay an upgrade fee to dine here, subject to availability.

On the same level at the bow of MS Trollfjord is its two-level panoramic lounge, home to Bar 1893. Open daily from midday to midnight, it serves a mix of cocktails, spirits, beer and wine made in and around Norway, from Arctic gin and traditional aquavit to stout from Svalbard and sparkling wine chilled on the sea floor.

Pools, spa and wellness

As an expedition vessel, MS Trollfjord acts more as a base for exploration rather than a traditional cruise ship. Most days are spent ashore, with onboard facilities designed to complement these experiences rather than keep guests occupied. However, there’s still plenty to enjoy between excursions.

For those keen to maintain a gym routine, the fitness room on deck nine is kitted out with an assortment of exercise equipment, including treadmills, bikes, weights and a spacious sauna room. Panoramic windows ensure you won’t miss the passing scenery.

Entertainment and onboard activities

Beyond the gym, sauna, bar and restaurants, MS Trollfjord offers various communal spaces and onboard activities to pass the time between ports. The library on deck eight is a great place to while away an afternoon, filled with board games and books from around the world. The lecture hall on deck five also doubles as a cinema on some evenings.

The specialised onboard Expedition Team doesn’t just guide guests on shore excursions. They’re also trained to run the ship’s onboard activities, which span from photography classes and craft afternoons to quiz nights and cultural experiences.

I joined a postcard-making workshop, a chef-led cooking demonstration and an intimate wine tasting, which allowed me to meet other guests and even create my very own souvenir to take home.

The best way to keep track of all activities and offerings is via Hurtigruten’s app, which details each event, as well as its location and time. Guests can also stay up to date with the ship’s daily shore excursions here, too.

Shore excursions worth booking

The full 15-day Astronomy Voyage on Signature includes 13 port stops. Northbound stops include Stavanger, Ålesund, Rørvik, Svolvær and Tromsø, then onwards to Honningsvåg, the northernmost city in continental Europe. From there, MS Trollfjord begins her return to Oslo, stopping in Alta, Narvik, Åndalsnes, Bergen and Kristiansand along the way.

Throughout the trip, guests can choose from more than 25 shore excursions, two of which are included as part of the Signature sailing. On day seven, you’ll visit the Arctic University Museum of Norway and the Planetarium in Tromsø. Then on day nine, it’s a trip to Bossekop and the Northern Lights Cathedral in Alta.

While the remaining shore excursions are available at an additional cost, it’s definitely money well spent. Built to navigate some of Norway’s most isolated and hard-to-reach destinations, MS Trollfjord provides access to places few travellers will ever get the opportunity to experience.

Across nine action-packed days, I geared up to brave the Arctic winter and ventured out on several guided shore excursions. From ice-fishing in Honningsvåg and dog sledding in Alta to a trip on the Golden Train in Åndalsnes and a walking tour of Bergen, they formed some of the most memorable moments of my trip.

For me, it’s this curated collection of off-ship adventures that really sets Hurtigruten apart. Each experience adds another layer of insight and understanding to Norway’s culture, customs and community, making it easy to forge a genuine connection to both people and place.

Reviewer’s verdict: Is this cruise worth it?

As my first cruise, Hurtigruten’s Astronomy Voyage on Signature sailing onboard MS Trollfjord set the bar extremely high. It’s a trip I believe will stay with me for the rest of my life, and not just because I was lucky enough to witness the northern lights – although that certainly helps!

But it’s the level of care and attention to detail both on and off the ship that makes this cruise so special. Behind the scenes, countless moving parts must come together to ensure the journey is as seamless as it is spectacular. Yet on the surface, it’s all smooth sailing for guests. And in my opinion, this can be attributed in large part to a faultless team of front-of-house staff.

Whether it be your waiter at dinner, your guide on a shore excursion or simply the bartender making your evening cocktail, everyone is attentive, knowledgeable and genuinely invested in making your journey as memorable as possible.

Combining unforgettable shore excursions with the comfort of returning to MS Trollfjord each evening, Hurtigruten strikes the perfect balance between adventure and indulgence. And while the northern lights may have been the reason I boarded, it’s everything else along the way that made disembarking so bittersweet.

The next Astronomy Voyage on Signature sailings with Hurtigruten depart Oslo on 12 and 26 March 2027.