A sprawling private estate in Ubud reigns supreme when it comes to wellness. Meet the five-star COMO resort in Bali delivering health reboots that last longer than a tan.

It’s hard to believe this sprawling, nature-ensconced retreat is just a 20-minute drive from the chaotic pace of Ubud town (and its sister property, the hilltop haven of COMO Uma Ubud). The Singapore-based COMO Group, founded by Christina Ong, is renowned for its holistic approach to wellness, and the COMO Shambhala Estate is arguably the star in its wellness crown.

The flagship Shambhala property became the world’s first full-service residential health retreat and holiday resort when it launched in 2005. Now in its eighteenth year, its unique brand of reclusive luxury (it’s possible not to see another soul over the course of a day thanks to the size and layout of its 9.3-hectare property) and dedication to bespoke wellness programs, allow guests to craft a wellness journey that is uniquely suited to their needs.

Rooms and residences

There are 30 rooms, suites and villas built within five uniquely themed residences designed by Cheong Yew Kuan. Different elements of nature inform the unique aesthetic of each: Bayugita (‘Windsong’), Tirta-Ening (‘Clear Water’), Tejasuara (‘Sound of Fire’), Wanakasa (‘Forest in the Mist’), Uma Bona (‘House of the Earth son’). The fifth is my home for the next three nights.

Tini, my personal assistant for the duration of my stay, transports me to my residence via buggy. An ornate set of intricately carved wooden double doors mark the entry point to Uma Bona. Oversized stone steps lead to my Terrace Suite past lush gardens and outdoor common spaces – it gives me Balinese palace meets The Secret Garden vibes; I soon learn the aesthetic is inspired by the Majapahit palaces and their formal pleasure gardens.

Inside, the suite is full of warm rich tones, built of chocolate-coloured teak wood and furnished with hand-carved reliefs, fine antiques, and courtly furniture. A freestanding bath takes prime position in the ensuite with a sliding door that leads to an outdoor shower. The moss-covered stone walls with cleverly landscaped gardens provide just enough privacy to embrace the experience.

I move outside to the deck and feel the warm embrace of the Balinese humidity. I spot rain falling in the distance and watch transfixed as it moves swiftly towards me, drenching the jungle in its wake. The smell of wet earth rises to greet me; I feel the last remnants of stress from the journey start to melt away.

The rain departs as quickly as it arrived, and I make my way to the Uma Bona pool. The jade-green infinity-edge pool blends into the surrounding jungle except for the impressive waterfall feature that falls from the private pool above.

Each residence has its own uniquely-designed pool – I’ve already had a sticky beak at the neighbouring Tejasuara; its pool sits in the heart of the residence with a firepit that burns of an evening – it feels like stepping into an episode of Game of Thrones.

Amenities and facilities

The Estate features 13 treatment areas, an outdoor hydrotherapy pool, swimming pool (in addition to the private pools in each residence) yoga room, Pilates studio, steam room and saunas, a fully-equipped indoor gym and an outdoor jungle gym with a climbing wall. There’s no shortage of space or facilities – I’ll be hard-pressed to make use of it all in three days.

COMO Shambhala Estate Wellness Programme

The roar of the Ayung River below, a rush of wind rustling the palms, a gecko calling from somewhere nearby; all a constant soundtrack to my days here at Shambhala. Every now and then you hear muffled screams of delight as tourists bob past, caught in the embrace of the rapids below. It’s impossible to deny the impact of the setting – just being here feels like a reset.

Guests travel to COMO Shambhala Estate for all kinds of reasons; from overworked corporates seeking a restorative reboot to solo travellers searching for a spiritual awakening to a new generation of travellers intent on prioritising health and wellbeing. The Integrated Wellness Programme requires guests to stay a minimum of three nights with 21 nights being the ideal length of time to experience the full benefits.

“It takes 21 days for our cells to regenerate. That means in 21 days our cells are all new. It’s the ideal length of time to stay," says Eugene Feklistov, COMO Hotels & Resorts Regional Director of Sales and Marketing. “We can’t fix you in a week, but when you go back and [if you] continue to follow the journey at home, you will feel very different in a year from now."

We are each seated on floor pillows dining on a picnic lunch set beside the Estate’s hidden water gardens, Kedara. “We don’t restrict. We recommend. Our goal is to humbly help you see the way. If you’re here for weight loss. Your goal shouldn’t be weight management because that isn’t really the problem. It should be self-control."

Unlike many other wellness resorts, the program isn’t compulsory. Guests are free to enjoy the Estate as they see fit. “COMO Shambala Estate is a great wellness retreat – and it is a great escape. You are welcome to go either way," Feklistov adds.

For those that do opt-in, a pre-arrival questionnaire plus a consultation with one of the wellness experts on staff will result in a personalised itinerary that is centred around one of four plans: Ayurvedic, Be Active, Bespoke, or Cleanse. After my one-on-one consult, I’m given a timetable that features a yoga breathwork class, a spa treatment, and multiple yoga classes plus a document that recommends a daily routine of meditation, journaling, breathing exercises and at least 20 minutes of sunshine for vitamin D absorption. There is also a nutritional wellbeing section that recommends a range of tweaks to my diet. I’m also told to spend time soaking up the colour green – the wellness expert acknowledges this sounds weird but insists it will help with inflammation. Given the setting, finding green is one of the easiest tasks she sets.

Food and drink

Every meal here feels nourishing in all the ways a good meal should. Southeast Asian flavours dominate the menu at both Glow and Kudos House – think tamarind, kaffir lime, and ginger. The focus is on fresh ingredients (mostly sourced from the resort’s onsite organic vegetable garden) that help balance blood sugar levels, and boost immunity and concentration while satisfying cravings.

Glow is the more healthful of the two with options such as big, crunchy salad bowls; vegetable soups; mezze plates overflowing with dips and crudites; and mains that feature the likes of zucchini noodles, Southern Indian dhal and grouper poached in ginger for lunch or dinner.

Breakfast and dinner are served at Kudus House; a 150-year-old former Javanese residence now used as a restaurant. I become a little obsessed with the hot and sour seafood soup. The Mie Goreng with fresh wok-fried egg noodles is also a standout followed by mango carpaccio with Indonesian vanilla and kaffir lime syrup for dessert.

Both restaurants serve wellness juices daily. I rotate between the Waterfall, a blend of watermelon, cucumber and mint that is billed to reduce internal heat, hydrate, and relieve headaches; and the Stress Reliever – packed with carrot, apple, grapes, spinach, fennel and ginger to calm the nervous system and balance hormones.

Sunday Brunch at Glow is a real event. I select steamed dumplings, lamb skewers, wagyu beef sliders and tiger prawns from the menu while local village girls practice their traditional dance to the joyful sounds of the gamelan orchestra. It’s a memorable food finale to a few days of healthful eating that have left me feeling light and nourished.

Activities and experiences

I’m seated in the open-air yoga bale. The wind picks up pace in the distance and I hear it move through the trees making its way towards me as I practice breathing in deeply and releasing my breath slowly; counting as I go. Monica, my instructor, has been guiding the class for the past hour and it now draws to a close. As we sit talking in hushed, sleepy whispers she shares her final words of wisdom for the day, “Find something you love to do. That might be Zumba, or yoga, or walking your dog. If you love it, you’ll stay motivated – and you won’t feel like your job is stealing your life from you."

Joyful movement is key; it really sums up the range of activities on offer at Shambhala. From the Estate Walk that leads to a hidden water garden and a picnic lunch served in woven baskets followed by afternoon swims in the jungle-shaded mineral pools to therapeutic hydrotherapy, Pilates and circuit training classes. You control the pace and tempo during your stay. It’s an approach that allows you to tune into your body’s needs, rather than go hard regardless.

At the end of the final day, I sit with a steaming cup of ginger tea and a small plate of biscuits overlooking the Estate Amphitheatre at sunset. A family of monkeys have decided to join us – a couple are getting a little too close for comfort and one of the staff stand guard, ready to chase them off. They take the hint and make haste back into the jungle below. I spot a tiny green light flickering around the table – a firefly! The first I’ve seen in person. It’s the kind of thing one could easily miss, but not here. Here, you notice everything.

Travel Details

Getting there

During peak travel periods, Virgin Australia operates twice daily return flights per week from Melbourne, and daily return services from Sydney, Brisbane, Adelaide and the Gold Coast to Denpasar (Bali). From $635 Economy and $2155 Business Class return. All Virgin Australia fares include Velocity Frequent Flyer Points and offers.

Room rates

Room rates for COMO Shambhala Estate start from AUD $871 (All rates are subject to 21 per cent government tax and service charge).

Tours and activities

You can view the resort’s full list of experiences on their website.