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The Bosphorus Straight Istanbul

10 things to do in Istanbul
Forever a fan of its silver-tipped minarets, ancient bazaars and peerless hospitality, Dilvin Yasa makes her annual pilgrimage back to Istanbul and reckons it’s time we all follow suit. When I announced I was heading back to Istanbul a few months ago, my declaration invited its fair share of curious questions. Was it safe? Was I sure? Shouldn’t I perhaps consider somewhere less… volatile? They’re fair questions of course; Istanbul has been through a rough time in recent years, but I told them the same thing I’ll tell you now – it’s as safe and as dangerous as anywhere else. I’ll continue to go every year and while I’m at it, I’ll give you my ultimate Top 10 in the hope that you’ll one day join me. 1. Ottoman palaces turned luxury hotels Whenever I’m in Istanbul, I check into a suite at a waterfront palace. It sounds wonderfully decadent I know, but in a city where former Ottoman palaces and grand residences are laughably commonplace, you can do exactly that without sounding like a tool. The best of the bunch is easily Çıraǧan Palace, an opulent 19th palace-turned-Kempinski property which walks a fine line between showcasing Turkey’s 19th-century architectural past and offering travellers all the mod-cons they should rightfully expect. Enjoy its pools, restaurants, spa and location, but most of all, enjoy saying, ‘my suite at the palace’. 2. The Princes’ Islands Picture a series of islands where there are no cars - only horses or bicycles. Where old Ottoman houses stand side by side to decadent beach clubs, and your only company is the cat (okay many cats) pestering you for a few drips of your cherry ice-cream. In a city filled with 15 million people and what is regularly voted the worst traffic in the world, The Princes’ Islands – only a quick ferry ride off the coast of Istanbul - can give you the peace and quiet you’ll occasionally crave. 3. Indulge at a Hamams (Turkish baths) Unless you happen to love sandpaper on your skin and consider water-boarding a hobby (and who doesn’t?), I don’t know that you’ll ever recover from your first Turkish bath (hamam) experience, but I know first-hand that once you’ve tried it, you’ll go back again and again. An ancient multi-stage bathing ritual that dates back to the 7th century, all the action takes place on a heated marble slab and although most hamams follow the same rituals, some of the best in town include Kiliç Ali Paşa Hamamı, Çemberlitaş Hamamı and Sanitas Spa at Çıraǧan Palace Kempinski. 4. Shop at the markets Like most Turks, I tend to avoid visiting the Grand Bazaar, deeming it to be too crowded, too over-priced, and too ‘Hey baby, where you go?’ catcall-y. Having said that, I recently went back after a 20-year hiatus and discovered the historic bazaar, which has been servicing this great city since the 1400s, all but empty. Prices are lower than low and sales people are so grateful to make any money that one vendor openly wept with relief when I purchased two jackets. It’s time to head back and spend, spend, spend. Don’t worry; security is tight. 5. Bosphorus tour Have a spare $5? You can do no better than jumping on a Bosphorus Harbour tour, which departs from the chic waterside village of Ortakȍy (a 10-minute walk from Çıraǧan) and taking a one-hour tour of all of the palaces and ancient ruins that line the waterfront as though they were all purchased as part of a bulk lot online (seriously, how much history can one city have?) I personally like to spend my time plotting which of the pretty pastel waterfront mansions I’m going to one day squat in buy. 6. Nosh on some local food There is nothing quite so disheartening for a Turk than to be on the receiving end of the following declaration: "Turkish food? Oh I LOVE kebabs!" Yes, we think, kebabs are great, but you know what's even better? Tasting rich layers of history in everything we eat – an end result that can easily be achieved with the help of one golden rule: only ever order food (particularly street food) if the place in question has a long queue filled with locals hankering for a bite. 7. Instanbul's rooftop bars I’m a sucker for a rooftop bar – particularly if said rooftop bar takes in views of sparkling waterway crammed with ancient palaces, towers and ruins – and happily, Istanbul is BIG on rooftop bars. You can eat at all of them but while I recommend a drink at 360Istanbul or Leb-i Derya for a cocktail, your first rooftop meal is best enjoyed at Mikla, where chef Mehmet Gűrs gives inventive Turkish dishes a quirky Scandinavian twist. 8. Balat The ‘influencers’ posing on every cobblestoned corner are enough to turn you off, but persevere; Istanbul’s most colourful suburb is also one of its oldest and ethnically diverse, and hidden gems can be found in every nook and cranny (often hiding behind flamboyant influencers). Located in the historic (and incredibly hilly) region of Fatih, you’ll need your walking shoes to tour adequately, but taking time to drink coffee and people watch will keep you feeling thirsty for more. 9. Turkish tea I’ve been married to a Brit now for well over a decade, but I still can’t for the life of me understand the concept of putting milk in tea. Don’t even think about doing this in Turkey however – you’ll need to accept it the way it is: dark, strong and repetitive. Be prepared to drink a minimum of 10 cups a day in the most unusual of circumstances (speaking to a bank manager or buying a shirt). Don’t worry, the shakes will eventually subside once you get back home 10. The locals “I love Istanbul so much I want to drop my pants and make love to her,” a waiter told me over lunch during my last visit. “I mean seriously, I could marry her – you know?” I know and now everyone else does too. Want passionate people who would love nothing more than to show you around their city and feed you endlessly? You can’t go past the hospitality of the Turks. My advice? Just don’t bring up soccer, politics, or how they feel about Istanbul. Please, just take my word for it.

Faralya, Turkey. secret travel gems

56. Faralya, Turkey
Outdoor enthusiasts will love Faralya in Turkey; camp outside with crystal clear water just a stone's throw away. Lepidopterists will be happy to know that Butterfly Valley is home to numerous species of butterflies - number 56 on our 100 Secret Gems You Need To Know About list.

The mighty Faith Mosque.

An emotional love letter to Istanbul
When Dilvin Yasa introduced her children to her ancestral home of Istanbul recently, she couldn’t have predicted just how emotional the trip would be.

Istanbul, Turkey.

4. Istanbul – World’s Most Incredible Cities
Insider's guide to Istanbul in Turkey, ranked #4 in our countdown of '100 Most Incredible Cities in the World'.

WWI cemetery in Ypres, Belgium.

The top seven battlefields worth visiting around the world
With the gunfire ceased and the bloodshed thankfully long gone, these battlefields remain historic landmarks. Here Mat McLachlan - Australian war historian, author, television presenter and founder of Mat McLachlan Battlefield Tours - reveals the world’s most interesting and significant battle grounds for Aussies to visit.

Commemorating ANZAC Day overseas.

Lest we forget: Commemorating overseas
There are many ways you can commemorate Anzac Day or Remembrance Day overseas - here we reveal some of the best tour options and advice.

The baths of Pamukkale, Turkey, ranked #79 in our countdown of '100 Ultimate Travel Experiences of a Lifetime'.

79. Soak in the baths of Pamukkale in Turkey
Ranked #79 in our countdown of '100 Ultimate Travel Experiences of a Lifetime'.

Hot air balloon ride over Cappadocia, Turkey, ranked #81 in our countdown of '100 Ultimate Travel Experiences of a Lifetime'.

81. Rise above Cappadocia in a hot air balloon
Ranked #81 in our countdown of '100 Ultimate Travel Experiences of a Lifetime'.

The Grand Bazaar in Istanbul, ranked #60 in our countdown of '100 Ultimate Travel Experiences of a Lifetime'.

60. Shop in the Grand Bazaar in Istanbul, Turkey
Ranked #60 in our countdown of '100 Ultimate Travel Experiences of a Lifetime'.

One of the many detailed displays in the Museum of Innocence.

Inside Istanbul’s Museum of Innocence
On a visit to the Turkish city of Istanbul, Susanna Smith visits a compelling museum that blurs the lines between fact and fiction to exquisite effect.

The glamorous lobby of the Shangri-La Bosphorous

Why it’s time to visit Turkey
Expect to see Turkey in the limelight over the next year, with major events, anniversaries and exciting hotel openings

Winning 'Your Shot' image, taken of Cappadocia, Turkey.

Your Shot Winner: Cappadocia, Turkey
This issue's winning 'Your Shot' photo was captured by reader Guy Betar.

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